Camino Day 4: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

At Hotel Arzúa, our breakfast was included so we saw many of the people we saw on the Camino - the Dutch, the old ladies, and the Korean mother-daughter duo. The daughter whom we saw limping last night at dinner, was clearly in a lot of pain. She may have broken something - unclear; but what I do know is, they started arguing in the breakfast room and I was the only one who could understand. They argued whether they should go to the hospital, take a taxi to the next town, or stay and sight-see; none of which were acceptable to the daughter. The mom tried to stay calm and kept helping herself to more breakfast as the daughter melted down. I’m sure it was super upsetting and disappointing.

All I can say is, we’re lucky we’re feeling the way we are - thank goodness for magnesium and our routines. As a trio, we take Advil, drink magnesium, Salon Pas and ice our body - a routine we have mastered in varying forms. I have learned, I must be very careful because if I sunscreen too early, I can’t prepare my camelback water pack, and I’m deathly afraid of eating or washing my face after I’ve lathered on Salon Pas all over my achy joints. We have figured it out and we continue to make sure we’re all doing okay and taking good care of each other!

So we headed out for our shortest walk thus far and to O Pedrouzo. It was uneventful and we met a woman from Quebec who had done part of the Camino last year, but felt like her hotel experience was not enough. So she decided to return for the full French way which takes over a month and rough it up. We also met a 79 year old Korean woman from Orlando who is on her 3rd Camino! She said she loves the experience - we were very impressed. 

As the various routes were all converging as we get closer to Santiago de Compostela, we saw our regulars, but also many new people and learned faces and characteristics - where are you from, where did you start, and etc. It is definitely getting crowded on the path, as we mixed in with these cows - we took this fun selfie!

We also managed like clockwork, see the running driver - when he passes, we get excited and say hello as he gives us a thumbs up. What’s amazing is as soon as we mention him and think it’s about time, he shows up like Johnny on the spot!

Along the path, there was a fun stop where it is tradition to drink the pilgrim beer and sign the bottle. We enjoyed coffee, chatting with a woman from Barcelona, and taking pictures with an horreo or traditional Galician granary decorated with bottles. Here are a few collages of the experience as we shared a bottle of beer in the morning:

As we marched on, you notice beautiful flowers everywhere and many female pilgrims decorate their hair with flowers. As Tresa has a green thumb, she is able to spot and identify all the various plants and flowers along the path. Here’s a beautiful photo of the Thomas sisters - so happy!:

Here’s another in front a cool forest:



Around midday, we had a delicious lunch at Marela, where we shared a tomato salad, pasta with vegetables, pork chops, and a hamburger. For drinks, we ordered a shandy, ginger lemonade, and a cider - a few photos below:

After lunch, we walked on and meandered through villages and this beautiful forest where we took some photos:

We thought we were close to O Pedrouzo as we had walked almost the planned 12 miles / 19 kms, but we hadn’t seen the running driver. I said we probably still had a bit to go and Tresa remarked he will probably round the bend and appear. And as if it was a cue, 5 minutes later he was running towards us and I yelled out “dos veces cada día” which means “2 times every day!” We could not stop laughing and then walked into town.

We were staying in a triple room at Pension Vinte e Tres, and our luggage was waiting for us. As we were earlier than usual due to the shorter distance, we ran some errands at the pharmacy and took naps after our showers. We walked though town and went to dinner at Galaico where we sipped on multiple rounds of wine, munched on a ham and cheese platter, and chatted with folks walking by.

We could not stop laughing how the running driver appears every time we talk about him and is like a North Star on our route who can help us know if we’re making good time. And just like that, we saw him drive by in his van! Mary Ann said he will live a long life as there is an Indian saying that you live long when people talk about you.

Passing by as well, we saw the family with two sons and learned they were from Seville - they were super sweet and we saw the Dutch, the Japanese, many students, and met Austrians and a German with whom Tresa chatted as they were sitting next to us.

And then just like that, our running driver buddy walked by with a horde of students and we all started laughing! The kids asked him who we were and he answered saying we see each other on the Camino two times a day. He motions with his hands and says “I’ll see you tomorrow!” Literally every time - Johnny on the spot.

We decided we needed to have more than wine, cheese, and ham, so we ordered a mountain rice dish that had chicken, shrimp, and squid and it was a hearty and satisfying meal. A collage below:



Tomorrow will be our last walk and we heard that people cry when they see Santiago de Compostela for the first time. Also on the journey, many write about how much they have reflected, cried, and of course laughed. The three of us can’t seem to stop laughing and are starting to feel sad that the walk is coming to an end - these familiar faces and our inside jokes have brought us so much joy!