Sevilla

I woke up and had breakfast at my hotel, Mélia Sevilla which was excellent. I wanted to plan out my day by the pool (as I hadn't prepared that much), but the deck wasn't getting enough sunshine. Consequently, I actually sunbathed on my hotel balcony that was drenched with sun. Although it's only like 65 degrees, the Spanish sun is very strong.

I decided that I wanted to grab food at Bar Yerba which was recommended by the Peruvian family. I researched that I could take the #1 bus that picks up from my hotel and drops me off in the neighborhood, called La Macarena. After walking a few blocks, I found the adorable tapas bar. I decided to go now as it's closed on Sunday evenings and all day Monday, so this was my one chance.

I had several tinto veranos and asked for the best tapas. The waiter brought me a grilled tuna with razor clams in a beet sauce along with complementary potato tapas:



Afterwards, I walked down to the Plaza de la Encarnación, known for its shopping, but more recently the Metropol Parasol which has been nicknamed the "Flying Waffle". It covers old dead space and is a divisive topic. The analogy used in my guidebook is a modern day Eiffel Tower. Here's a photo of one part of it which is held up by five pillars:



I then walked down to the Cathedral which is the largest gothic cathedral in the world and third overall. When they decided to build it, they supposedly said "let's construct a church so large, future generations will think we were mad." It opened at 2:30 pm on Sunday and the line to get in was very long. Here's a photo of the entrance and a copy of the weathervane that sits on top of the Giralda:



On my way in, I observed they didn't let a girl in who was wearing a tank top that was split in the front so you can see her midriff. Yeah missy, you can't wear that here! If I know I'm going to a church, I always bring something to cover my shoulders and no shorts! Although they don't specify in the instructions, your midriff is NOT okay in European churches...

One of the first highlights is the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Some question if it's really his remains, but these remains whomever they may be, were brought to Sevilla in 1898:



I then walked into the Sacristy of the Chalices to see a Goya painting of St. Theresa, and then the Main Sacristy which housed a beautiful painting of the Immaculada by Murillo under the dome:



The main altarpiece is under renovation, but I think you can tell how massive and ornate it is. It has over 1,000 carved biblical figures:



The Royal Chapel was closed, but I did find the Chapel of Saint Anthony where a famous Murillo painting, "Vision of Saint Anthony" hangs. A cutout of Saint Anthony had been stolen and returned in 1875 after a New York art dealer bought it and returned it to the Spanish Consulate. When I took a photo with my camera, held down the button to focus, and an initial flash starts, I could see two light blue laser beams across the whole chapel in front of the painting. At least I think it was... Here's the painting with some lights:



The second part of the Cathedral is the Giralda, a minaret tower that was part of the original mosque that the Cathedral was built on top of. There are 34 ramps to get to the top where you can see sweeping views of the city. This has been converted to a bell tower and has a weathervane at the top called "El Giraldillo" which represents faith and is a symbol of Sevilla. Here's a collage of the view (you may be able to see the famous bull ring), the bells, and the actual tower:



As I left the courtyard of orange trees, I was struck by the fact large groups of people were leaving the Iglesias del Sagrario just next door and there was a massive line outside. I had originally gotten confused this was the Cathedral line earlier today. Through my limited Spanish skills, I learned it was the 50th anniversary or Jubilee of the canonical coronation of La Macarena, the holiest effigy of Mary in Sevilla translated as the Virgin of Hope of Macarena or also called La Esperanza. It's interesting that this 17th century statue has glass tears and five emerald brooches given to her by a famous bullfighter. Here's more information that explains Sevilla's adoration for La Macarena:

http://www.traditioninaction.org/religious/a026rpMacarena.htm

Interesting fact, even during the Spanish Civil War she was buried in a coffin and protected by the Brotherhood of La Macarena who are sworn to protect her. This statue is usually in the Basilica of Macarena and once a year in December, they bring her down so Sevillanos can kiss her hand. Since it's the 50th anniversary, they had an 11 hour procession to this church and will be available for a day for folks to kiss her hand. Then it will go to another church and then back to the Basilica. I now realized her platform used to carry her was inside the Cathedral and I was confused why so many people were around it, but wasn't on the guide map.

Many of the cities in Spain are very religious and there are clearly a lot of churches, but Semana Santa, or Holy Week in Sevilla and other cities in Andalusia are supposed to be one of the biggest celebrations in the world. As I didn't have anything on the agenda except explore, I decided to join the other Sevillanos and partake. I stood in line for about two hours and kissed her hand. Here's a photo of the experience including me with all the Sevillanos in line and a selfie with a green pin from the Brotherhood of La Macarena:



Afterwards, I celebrated this experience with a mango sorbet and made my way in and out of shops. As I was walking, I stumbled upon a holy parade. A lady told me it was for the Cruces de Mayo, the Cross of May, yet the interweb tells me it's usually in the beginning of the month. I felt lucky to watch a local Sevilla parade as during Holy Week, they are supposed to be inspiring. You can see in the photo collage there were lots of people in front of and behind the cross and a school band that followed. Furthermore, I learned these processions are not very technical and "leaders" tell the bearers which direction to move. You can perhaps see the holes on the sides and the people talking through them and the feet / sneakers of the young folks underneath:



I finally made my way up to Puerta del Osario where Bar Casa Eme was located which was recommended by the Peruvian family I met in Granada. The bites were super tasty! Should have known as they were people waiting before it opened and they continuously ordered tapas, snails, and beers. The barkeeper keeps track of all the orders by chalking up the counter. Coincidentally, the bar was covered with photos of La Macarena.

I asked him to bring whatever he thought was best. I had a sirloin with whiskey on a montadito (tapas bread), montadito de gambas (prawns), and shrimp in garlic. The sirloin with whiskey was so good, I had two! The salt that was in these dishes was crunchy, but not overdone. Peruvian family suggestion for the win! Also, when I asked the owner where my check was because I wanted to see the chalk, he said it was in his head and smiled. I ate and bopped in this tiny bar to what I like to call and remember it as, Spanish Abba. Here's a photo collage of the experience:



A block away was the #1 bus stop so I took it back to my hotel. Had a drink at the bar to end a surprising day in Sevilla!