Camino Day 2: Portomarin to Palais de Rei

We tried to start earlier this morning, so we could minimize our time under the hot Spanish sun. So we were up about an hour earlier than yesterday. We quickly enjoyed the free breakfast in our room and dropped our luggage down in the lobby where there were already several rucksacks ready to go - I guess others were still faster than us.

We walked out of Portomarin and onward toward Palais de Rei. Our walk today was along the road and forests. The weather was perfect with some clouds and a nice breeze. I did manage to perpetuate my farmers tan with a backpack tan. Here are some photos:









Since we had to cross roads several times for the Camino path, there were signs alerting cars. So instead of beware of deers, they are warning for pilgrims! Here’s one of them:



We also stopped several times to rest more today than yesterday. Here’s one of the Thomas sisters in action, airing feet and after feeling relieved - you can decide who was doing what:



We were all very sore today; our backs, feet, thighs, ankles, and etc were all hurting. It was oddly painful on the downhill, even on the slightest incline you could feel aches in your joints. Mary Ann said the bottoms of her feet were hurting and I asked which foot. She replied “Both Man!” I laughed so hard and retorted, “when did you become Jamaican?”

This is a photo right after Mary Ann had me in stitches again. I caught up to her and from underneath her wide brimmed new hat from Amazon, she creepily turns to me and from under the brim says, “Buen Camino...” in a spooky voice. I likened her action to a ghost in a haunted house as we said “Buen Camino” to other pilgrims and not to each other.



We stopped for lunch around midday and we shared summer shandys, lemon soda, beef, eggs, chorizo, and salad. Here’s a collage:



All day we ebbed and flowed with very large student groups. We also solved the mystery of the very fit man who kept running backwards and realized he was driving a van that was accompanying one of the large group of students. He would park ahead and run back to the group and walk forward with them. I said if I had that job, I’d just sit in the car and work on a puzzle. Here’s a photo of Mary Ann in front of a large pack of students:



Here are some more photos of us on our walk:







Here’s a picture of a granary, also known as a horreo that you see everywhere. Tresa was curious about them, so I asked some folks and they said they store corn and etc for animals and is very common in Galicia:



We walk through many villages, passing churches and cemeteries:



Women of the village try to sell us goods - here’s Tresa buying soft and hard cheese for a few euros:



One of many tree tunnels that are a welcomed part of our walk:



We tried to take a selfie in front of Palais de Rei, but you can’t see the village due to the angle of the light:



Our luggage was waiting for us at our hotel, Pension Casa Camino which also had a pulperia restaurant downstairs. Pulperia, or octopus is the local Galician delicacy. So after showering and taking some magnesium to soothe our muscles, we conveniently had dinner downstairs. We shared the local Galician soup, clams, spaghetti carbonara, and of course octopus. Here’s a collage:



We also walked around town and we took this selfie in front of the pilgrim statue:



All our phones say something slightly different, but I believe we walked 24 kms / 15 miles like yesterday. We realized Mary Ann’s settings were off, so it exaggerated how many steps and miles we walked. Tomorrow will be our longest stretch of the walk (29 kms / 18 miles) and we definitely need more breaks - this will help us not lose so much steam towards the end or fall asleep as Mary Ann almost did.

As I also received some difficult news from Korea this morning, we also dedicated today for all those loved ones that have gone before us and can’t do the walk with us - we say a prayer for them and as we reflect on our journey...

Camino Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin

Despite going to bed after 1 am, we managed to get up and ready to walk our first day of the Camino by 8:30 am. Here are some sidewalk signs as we left Sarria showing us the way:





We followed the arrows and signs out of the city and crossed the bridge:

It was hazy and warm in the morning and it began to actually cool a little as the sun started to shine through.









There were times where we were with lots of people or none as the groups ebbed and flowed. Here’s once when there was a crowd:



And we posed with the signs some more:

After about an hour of walking, we stopped for breakfast in Baradelo, where we also picked up scallop shells to place on our backpacks.

As we walked through tree tunnels, we enjoyed the Spanish countryside with the waft of smells from the farms, like the cows and manure. Mary Ann declared it was all natural.







Here are some selfies even one with sheep:





We definitely pulled a rookie first day move with not enough resting, as we hit a wall and couldn’t find a village restaurant in sight for lunch. We were grateful when we found Mercadoiro which was just under 4 miles from Portomarín at around 2 pm.

Here we met an Irish couple who gave us some tips on how to order - we shared a goat cheese and honey and a ham and cheese sandwich paired with lemon soda:



They also had lounge chairs looking at the countryside where we rested for about 20 minutes:



After resting and for our last hour of walking, we trudged on with the Spanish sun out in full force. I definitely have a sunglasses and farmers tan from the day. We passed this shop which said in Korean they had spicy cup ramen. I heard there were many Koreans who do the Camino and I saw a few today.



On our approach to Portomarin, you could see the Minho river:

And then we had a little adventure coming down a steep climb - Mary Ann promptly reminded me of our hiking in Machu Picchu which was also steep:

But we made it down and took this selfie right before the bridge crossing:



We arrived in Portomarin and had to consult maps to figure out where our hotel was and walked through the village:







But we found La Casa de Manuel where our luggage was waiting and fresh towels. We had paid 20€ each for a luggage forwarding service where they bring your luggage to your next stay. There are many services, but I selected Correos.

We then headed out for dinner. We meandered the streets and decided on the restaurant next to the plaza and church where we had beers and price fixe pilgrim menu which was very cheap.

We then decided to to take this ridiculous selfie in front of the pilgrim statue. You can see we are all at our best:

I think that’s what over 24 km / 15 miles of walking will do to you and we do it all again mañana!