Greece

Our transfer picked us up at 4 am for our 7:20 am Turkish Airlines flight to Thessaloniki, Greece. The ride took about 40 minutes and our car had prom limo vibes - not sure the lights were necessary this early, but it is what it is!



After overall airport security, self bag drop which took a few tries (it was like working a CVS self-checkout kiosk), passport control, security again, we were able to rest in the IGA Lounge due to Justin’s credit card. We noshed, saw more plastic surgery patients, and what I believe to be the Galatasaray Women’s Basketball team. It could have been volleyball too, but it’s the same club that the soccer fans were pregaming for on Sunday.

Separately, throughout the trip, we also saw several recent hair transplant recipients, but most seemed local. Turkey is well-known for their affordable cosmetic and plastic surgery and we saw many bandages and head wraps.

We enjoyed our 4 nights and 3 full days in Istanbul! We leave behind the calls to prayer, the many cats that walk the streets, and the throngs of tourists in this very safe city. We were surprised that Ozan advised there is very limited pickpocketing and we surmised it may come from the low crime culture or the Muslim mindset. We also heard plenty of Russian which was actually surprising noticeable. Perhaps it seemed more to us considering so many countries won’t let Russians visit nowadays.

Our flight took about an hour and upon arrival in Thessaloniki, we picked up our Hertz rental car. This is the planned route for the next few days through Northern Greece ending in Athens:



Most folks do time-consuming day trips from Athens to Meteora annd Delphi, but I figured this would give us flexibility and more time.

For our morning in Thessaloniki, we enjoyed a few highlights and walking around. It’s the second-largest city in Greece and was once the co-capital of the Byzantine Empire with Constantinople.

First, we drove by the White Tower which is on the waterfront and now a symbol of the city - it once was a prison:



After parking the car in a garage, we walked by the Palace of Galerius ruins and then up to the Arch of Galerius and the Rotunda of Galerius. All from the early fourth-century AD and considered outstanding examples of early Byzantine art and architecture, and of course, UNESCO World Heritage sites:







The Rotunda was also once a church and had impressive mosaics:



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We then passed many chain stores and fancy shops down to Aristotelous Square on the waterfront. Apparently, the city’s main university is Aristotle University, the largest in Greece and the Balkans. I rubbed Aristotle’s toe as I saw someone else do it and at the same time, a bird landed on his head:



The large square - my mom said the boats looked like they were in a painting due to the fog:





We then lunched at Mono where we ordered a focaccia, a barchetta, and a salad. Justin aptly pointed out this was more Italian, but was still delicious and hit the spot:



On our way back to the parking garage, I took a photo of the city’s own Hagia Sophia:



Justin and I split the driving, but I ended up doing more as he didn’t sleep much last night or on the plane and I drank a double Greek coffee at lunch. The car is a Kia Sportage - despite the upgrade, it didn’t have CarPlay capabilities like when we struggled with our Japan rental car. But the car navigation was easier to input and seemed more updated than in Japan. For good measure, we still propped my phone for Google Maps. Also, even though it was a Korean car, the navigator had a British accent and some destinations defaulted to British search results.

It started to drizzle and was super foggy on our drive. We couldn’t see Mount Olympus, but I asked Justin to take some random photos:





In less than three hours, we were in Kalabaka, one of the towns in Meteora. I wanted to visit the Holy Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary today, as it will be closed tomorrow after our morning monastery tour for a midday break and we will want to head to Delphi. It is believed to be the only Orthodox church in the world that features a free-standing pulpit and is from the 11th century. The blogs said it was definitely worth a visit if you’re staying in town. We couldn’t take photos inside, but were super impressed on how well-preserved it was and with the Meteora backdrop:





Here’s a view of the town along with our rental car:



Our hotel, called Doupiani, is in neighboring Kastraki. I realized Mama Kim and Justin had never stayed in a town that clearly caters to backpackers. It definitely reminds me of experiences in South America and the vibes. Justin had to help carry our suitcases to the second floor as there was no elevator. Mama Kim said this felt like “real travel” and was an adventure. Our second floor room came with a terrace “panorama” view:





After resting, the hotel recommended dinner at Taverna Bakaliarakia which was in the village center and next to the town church. Our waiters were lovely and we shared cokes, local Alfa beer, fried cod, spaghetti, chicken souvlaki, moussaka, and a complimentary yogurt and honey dessert. Here’s a photo of the town vibes and our dinner:





We then drove back up the hill and to our hotel. You will notice there’s no real photos of us today as we were a bit tired and sans makeup. So I leave you with this night photo from our terrace:

Quick Trip To Asia

On our third full day in Istanbul, we didn't have a fixed itinerary and with Ozan’s few tips and reading about the places that would have been included on a third guided day, I debated a few options.

Ultimately, we called an Uber which sends a city taxi, to go to the Süleymaniye Mosque, the largest in Istanbul. We could have walked, but I wanted to save my mom’s legs and take it easy to the Third Hill (there are seven like in Rome).

Ozan remarked that the calligraphy and dome were quite beautiful which we noticed ourselves:



Outside the mosque:







Then inside where we interacted with volunteers who had literature in different languages about Islam and the Koran. We noticed the ostrich eggs hanging from the chandeliers which we learned previously keeps the spiders and bugs away…





There was also a helpful and interactive iPad where Mama Kim learned more about Islam, Mosque features, and etc in Korean:



Then we walked down hill to the main street, so we could call an Uber easier - I felt it wastes time to wait for them to navigate to us on the old and serpentine roads.

After a 5 minute ride up the road to Balat, we arrived at the Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, also known as the Iron Church. It’s a Bulgarian Orthodox church and famous for being made of prefabricated cast iron and a UNESCO World Heritage site:





Before entering, a man dropped his shoe polishing brush and Mama Kim nicely pointed it out as the man offered a shine. Justin and I quickly admonished her as Ozan had told us that was a ruse to get one to pay for a shoeshine and they haggle you for more money. Mama Kim noted she had forgotten the scam, but was apt to point out she’s wearing sneakers and didn’t need a shine. He quickly walked away as we babbled and bickered in Korean.

Then we walked five minutes east to Fener where we visited the Patriarchal Cathedral Church of St. George. Per Wikipedia, it is the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople whose leader is regarded as the primus inter pares (first among equals) and is frequently looked upon as the spiritual leader of the 300 million Orthodox Christians worldwide. I explained to my mom it’s like the Pope for the Greek Orthodox Christians.

There was tight security to enter and you had to leave all water bottles outside. Apparently, it had been subject to a bomb attack and incidents when the country has experienced Turkish nationalism:



Considering its status in Christianity, it’s not as ornate or grand as the Ottomans required that non-Islamic buildings must be smaller and humbler per Wikipedia. We still found it glitzy - a few photos:







We saw a man kneeling on the ground and praying while touching this column. With the help of two Brits, we Googled and learned this was a significant Christian relic: a portion of the Column of Christ's Flagellation. This sacred pillar is believed to be the stone to which Jesus was bound and whipped. The Pakistani Brit and I decided we had to donate and touch the column together, because we could use all the luck and spirituality under the same God:



After walking through a touristy street in Fener, we meandered down to the ferry which took about 5 minutes. Orzan had suggested it, but warned they are not as frequent midday than the ferries near Old Town and our hotel. Thus, why we took taxis instead of buses and trams, and so we could be leisurely to make the 12:20 ferry and waited a fast 30 minutes:



The ferry travels through the Golden Horn, which is the primary inlet of the Bosphorus and creates a natural border of “Old Istanbul”. It was nice to see the old and new of Istanbul on each European side. 

But for our third day, we headed to the Asian part of Istanbul after a 30 minute ferry ride. Ozan had suggested going in the afternoon when the neighborhood was more lively. The Asian side is very residential and the most popular neighborhood to visit is Kadıköy. I read it had bohemian vibes and lots of shops and cafés. 

Upon arrival, we snacked on street chestnuts. Mama Kim had wanted to try as it reminded her of Korea. Ozan had explained many are undercover cops or informants and he knew because his dad was a cop:



At the top of the shopping district, there a statue of a bull, called Altıyol (Six Ways):



Some of the shopping streets which are pedestrian only:





We had seen on a Korean travel show and my colleague had raved about a fish sandwich he ate on a recent trip. Our timing didn’t work with the neighborhood and fish stand he had recommended, but we shared one from an Eater listicle shop:



The ferry back to the Old Town departs every 20 minutes. You could see what we sight-saw yesterday from the water - from left to right the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the Topkapi Palace:



We traveled under Galata Bridge to make a quick stop in Karaköy with all the fishermen:



Here’s a view of Eminönü as we docked - a super busy waterfront right in front of the Spice Market and a 10 minute walk to our hotel:



We walked along busy shopping streets around our neighborhood of Sirkeci. It’s popular as it’s between Old Town and Beyoğlu and many upscale hotels.

A few blocks from our hotel, we stopped in Şehzade Cağ Kebap which we almost tried before, but weren’t hungry or overwhelmed with how busy it seemed. It had come highly recommended and had lots of press clippings posted on the outside. They specialized in Cağ Kebap which is horizontally stacked marinated rotating lamb. It was delish and we wanted to eat more, but wanted to save our appetite for dinner:



An easy day of sightseeing and we decided to rest before heading out to dinner at Neolokal. We took the Tram #1 to Karaköy - we’ve driven, walked, ferried, and now taken the tram between these two popular neighborhoods.

Justin and mom had the normal tasting menu and for fun, I ordered the vegetarian. Many of the dishes looked the same and we enjoyed observing a proposal on one side and a flute performance of happy birthday by a Russian family on another, along with the views. Photos and collages below:











Nearby, I walked to Galata Tower which only took a few minutes and then headed back to the hotel. A photo of the Genoese former watchtower up close:



Three full days and we saw the best of Istanbul! And we ended it with a relaxed day and early night as we have an early flight to Greece tomorrow!