Victoria Falls, Zambia Side

A picture of a pretty flame lily, the national flower of Zimbabwe. We happen to see it though on our adventures on the Zambian side of the falls today.



We slept well through the night, and hope we’ve kicked our jet lag after today. We ate breakfast at our hotel where they made our omelettes into squares - a photo here:



We were picked up at 10 am for our Morning Breezer to Devil’s Pool, a formation near the edge of the falls. It took less than 10 minutes to the boat launch site which was well set up and were fitted for life jackets. I made a funny joke about being the last one fitted and then we boarded several speed boats. 

Across several speed boats, was a foursome of ladies from Lusaka - the capital of Zambia, and then about 10 people who were delightful. It was two families spending time together as their sons are getting married in May in South Africa. Also in the group were close friends. The couple bringing the families together includes Daniel who is originally from Zambia and Brett who is from South Africa. The fathers were super proud of their sons - Daniel is getting a PhD in the study of birds and Brett is a lawyer specializing in music law. They also have other interests and specializations, but I boiled it down for you blog fans. 

During our conversations about travel and birding, I brought up my old track coach who had headed up the local Audubon Society and my trip for my old colleague’s wedding in Trinidad and Tobago where I also visited one of the foremost bird sanctuaries (Asa Wright in Trinidad). I tried to flex all my birding knowledge and continued to have cool conversations with the family throughout the day. 

Here’s a photo of us on the speedboat which zipped past rocks and lush landscape and as we approach Livingstone Island, you can see the strong mist from the falls - so smokey!:





Upon arrival, they served a welcome drink made of maize which was not alcoholic, but fermented as we took off our life jackets.



Then we walked across the island and took a pretty picture in front of the falls with the various groups taking turns and near a plaque for Livingstone:











Then at the edge of the island, we first waded through shallow water holding hands. It reminded me of Dunn’s River Falls in Jamaica when we all held hands traversing the falls. But when it was deep enough, we either had to crab walk holding onto ropes or swim against the current. I opted to crab walk to a large formation where we could situate ourselves. The groups would take turns taking the obligatory fun photos at Devil’s Pool where the guides carefully instructed us - Devil’s Pool is only open during low season when the currents and water is manageable. 

We first sat on the ridge and were positioned. The ridge is actually quite wide and suspect during the lowest of the season, the guides study the formations, because they really knew where to step and the nooks and crannies. Here is where we first felt the nipping fish! We were warned they would nip at our skin, but were harmless. We surmised these fish get caught in the pool and just can’t get out. It tickled tremendously when they nipped on my legs and butt!

You could actually see the tourists on the Zimbabwe side along the viewing points we visited yesterday and the rainbows! It was really incredible being so close to the edge and our adrenaline was rushing. But after watching the first foursome go and the guides, I was more at ease. 

Then they ask you to prop on the ridge and lay on your chest. Other members of the group would wait for their turn. Two guides also hold on to your feet as you’re instructed to pose and another guide took endless photos and videos:

After sifting through hundreds, here’s a sampling of our poses:











After our photo shoot, we returned to the formation where we watched the families take their photos and we enjoyed the sound of the rushing water, the mist, and the beauty:







On the way back, I decided to swim instead of crab walk. We swim into the current and then we held hands again in the shallow area. We passed the wife of an apparently famous Zambian singer, so some jokingly asked for her autograph. 

Back on Livingstone Island, we were offered either porridge or a BLT. I opted for the porridge as we chatted more with the families and heard more tips of what to see on our next adventures. They did say they thought Devil’s Pool would be a highlight of our vacation. Here’s a photo of my porridge next to a wooden statue of a crocodile:

Back at the launch site, we were treated to a round of gin & tonic and Pimm’s Cup. The Zambian family who clearly are experienced hosts were so charming and you could tell they were proud of Zambia. Throughout the experience, they pointed out different plants and animals - they run a tobacco farm north of here and seemed to revel in being all together. It was such a delight and hope they visit New York some day, so we can return the hospitality. It could be soonish as Brett helped produce a documentary that might be making its way to a NY festival. A photo of us toasting together:



Back at the hotel, we rested by the pool and then showered as we were headed to our sunset cruise on the Zambezi river. The Zambezi is the 4th largest river system in Africa after the Nile, Niger, and Congo. Our catamaran was called the African Queen with drinks and light bites included as we cruised and enjoyed the breeze!







We were told we would see wildlife as this stretch goes through a game reserve. We saw many hippos popping in and out of the water:



And a family of elephants:



And of course the sunsetting gave off a pretty hue:



When we returned, it was clear our boat-mates enjoyed the included drinks more than us. Some danced with the musicians here who had played “Waka Waka - This Time for Africa”, my vacation theme song, when we were departing:  



After a nap, we opted to go to the shopping center that abuts our hotel where there was a restaurant called Makai. We heard about it from our boat-mates on our way back. They had a DJ and a clubby vibe to ring in the new year. Our server was celebrating her birthday and she was super attentive. She brought Amanda bug spray as she could see them flying around her and bowls of water with lemon so we could clean our fingers. This was thoughtful as we had ordered a pizza and french fries with our ciders, lemonade, and coke:

Indeed the countdown to 2024 began with living on the edge, staying classy, and as we enjoyed another day at Vic Falls as the locals would call it! We even got to hear and see some fireworks as we got ready for bed. Happy New Year from Africa!

Ghent

I slept in this morning as Ghent is only about 30 minutes away connected by frequent trains. I decided to have my first Belgian waffle in Belgium. I enjoy them often in NY from the Wafel & Dinges food truck that parks in front of my old office building multiple mornings a week. Here's photo of the different kinds - I got the one with speculoos:



In the midst of my breakfast, I managed to help a Korean get to the Central Station. My good deed for the day!

As I waited on the platform for my train, an Asian girl walked by - I realized it was Athena! I had met her in May in Madrid as we were both traveling alone. As we both work in NY, we actually share a friend in common. She's in Brussels for work and decided to stay an extra few days to sight see. She was on her way to Bruges! What are the chances that I meet Athena in Madrid and run into her in Brussels! Here are some posts down memory lane about hanging with Athena in Madrid:

• http://leadingalifeofcyn.blogspot.com/2014/05/spain.html
• http://leadingalifeofcyn.blogspot.com/2014/05/parks-and-art.html

We quickly made plans for dinner back in Brussels and I got off at the Ghent - St. Pieters train station. I took the #1 tram that goes to the center of the city.  

I made my way in the misty rain to St. Bavo's Cathedral where the van Eyck brothers' "Adoration of the Mystic Lamb" is on display. This is also known as "The Ghent Altarpiece" which is made up of 12 panels from the 15th century, double sided so there are panels for when it's open and closed. Here's more info: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghent_Altarpiece

It has been stolen or threatened to be destroyed several times - looting, a fire, World War I, and as highlighted in the movie "Monuments Men", stolen by the Nazis and hidden in a salt mine during World War II. Here's more info on the movie: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2177771/

You cannot take photos of the original which is undergoing restoration, so various original panels are missing and in black and white. A copy of which you can take photos, is located in another dark chapel and pictured below with a few zoomed in shots in the collage:





After a walk through the Cathedral and finishing the hour audio guide, I walked by the Belfry and the Town Hall, but decided not to go in. A picture of the Belfry:



I then had lunch at a brasserie next to Korenmarkt which is in the center of the city. I had a hot tea and a sesame chicken wrap. It was around 2 pm at this point and it started to rain, so I took cover in St. Nicholas Church. A photo of the altar below:



It was sunny by the time I got out and decided to walk back to the train station instead of taking the tram. The walk took about half an hour.

When I arrived, the station was a complete zoo. Not only were there a ton of students, none of the monitors were working! Everyone was referring to paper timetables and a nice gentleman from the info center directed me to the track. The paper timetables are unfortunately not reliable when there's a track change! As such, a nice Indian Brit woman whose name is Cynthia as well and I had to figure out from the Dutch announcements and the exodus of people from our platform, there was a track change! We luckily got to the right track in time.

30 minutes later and I was in the center of Brussels again. I rested at the hotel while I waited for Athena to return from Bruges. We agreed to meet around 8 pm and after researching, we ended up at Peï & Meï in Sablon. We had the tasting menu as pictured below, but I forgot to take photos of the meat course:



The company was great as we caught up and chatted about our mutual interests - travel, food, and etc... After our meal, we walked to the Grand Place and Athena had one last Belgian waffle prior to her early flight tomorrow. We also took many pictures of ourselves, trying to send to our mutual friend, Chris - a series represented below:

So we both leave Belgium tomorrow - Athena to NY and I to Paris!

Rainy London

I woke up and walked about 20 minutes to the Tate Modern. Opened in 2000, it's a converted power station filled with the modern works of Picasso, Dalí, and other amazing artists. I saw the Matisse Cut Outs exhibit and Malevich exhibit. The Matisse exhibit was excellent and I still remember learning about Malevich's suprematism theories in art history class. The museum had beautiful views of the river and St. Paul's Cathedral. After about two hours, I walked across Millennium Bridge - felt very "Bridget Jones" as she walked across the bridges in London! Here's a photo from and of the Tate Modern:





I took the tube from the St. Paul station to Marble Arch where I met my client and his wife for lunch at the Grazing Goat. Recommended by Sophia, it's an old-fashioned country pub on an adorable street near Hyde Park. We had Sunday Roast and fish and chips. Sunday Roast is what you usually eat with the family in Sundays and is the typical hearty fare of British cuisine. We also enjoyed desserts and tea. This client actually is not whom I here to accompany for market meetings, but rather another client who is starting a train vacation throughout Europe. I had also met his darling wife at Super Bowl, so there was indeed a comfort level and familiarity. Here's a picture of the Sunday roast with a popover, vegetables, and gravy:

After lunch, we walked over to the Marble Arch and through Hyde Park. Hyde Park reminds me of Central Park and we people-watched and enjoyed the friendly dogs. We made our way to Serpentine Lake and to the Diana Memorial Fountain. The fountain was a water ring made of Cornish granite stone with children who enjoyed wading in the water. Here are a few photos:

We then made our way down Flower Walk and past the gaudy Albert Memorial, pictured below:

At the end of Hyde Park is Kensington Palace where several Royal family members live in separate apartments, including Prince William: 

We sat for a few minutes on a bench and chatted away before we separated. They were off to touring more of London with a package tour, then to Paris, Nice, Venice, Florence, and Rome - all by train!

I opted to explore the park some more by finding the Peter Pan statue and the Italian Fountains. Here's a photo of the fountains:

It began to thunder and the clouds were settling in, so I decided to leave early to head to Charlotte Street. This is where I had plans to meet a colleague of mine who is doing a stint in the London office. We met at the Charlotte Street hotel for a drink and then had dinner at Siam Central for Thai food. We sat for hours talking and enjoying a bottle of white wine while the rain drizzled around us. 

Eventually I took the tube back to Sophia's apartment and Gus gnawed on a bone next to meet as I typed away on my iPad. Tomorrow will be last day of sight-seeing before two days of back-to-back meetings!