Oh-Saka

Our modern ryokan hybrid included western breakfast, but for a supplement, we decided to have Japanese breakfast which was brought to our awesome room:



After driving through the Gion district, so my mom could see the historical area, we headed to Arashiyama which is known for its famous bamboo forest. There was limited parking and my skills were challenged, but we have become pros at the parking lot system and tail-lights backed in parking. Some photos of our walk through the bamboo forest which was more crowded than December 2017:











The weather was beautiful and after meandering and Justin continuously offering to take photos for other Korean families but then making me do it, we returned to the car. We drove about 70 minutes southwest to Osaka where I had spent just a night in 2017 (http://leadingalifeofcyn.blogspot.com/2017/12/osaka.html) Since it was end of year when I visited, many sites were closed including Osaka Castle, so I decided that would be our first stop.

The castle is one of Japan’s most famous landmarks and is located in a park. As it’s Saturday and peak cherry blossoms, folks were out enjoying hanami and picnicking in Nishino Maru Garden which we decided to enter rather than the castle:









As we were hungry seeing the picnickers and not excited about the food cart options, we drove down to Shinsekai Market. This was not on my radar, but had been included in top sites in Osaka per Instagram posts. I have now learned it used to be way seedier and less safe, but they are trying to popularize it with some investment in the area and other sights. For snacks, we ate karaage or fried chicken and yaki-udon with pork belly with a side of kimchi:





Then we headed to our hotel, Mercure Tokyu Stay Osaka Namba which is close to Dotonbori which I liken to Times Square with the lights and action. We enjoyed a welcome drink before heading out. We walked through Shinsaibashi, a famous shopping arcade, and down to Dontonbori. On the Ebisubashi bridge, we saw the iconic Glico Running Man sign:



We then walked down to a popular tatoyaki restaurant and stood in line for their octopus fried balls famous in Osaka:





We walked up and down Dotonbori and took a photo in front of the second iconic sign and symbol of Osaka, Kuidaore Taro, the mechanical drum-playing clown:



We noshed on Yakitori and had some dumplings covered with scallions and mayonnaise while standing on the busy street. The restaurants have over the top signs along the street. Here’s the big gyoza or dumplings on the building and what we ate:



After observing the “eat til you drop” culture of Osaka, we were full from our varied street dishes and popped into a Family Mart convenience store to pick up a Choco Monako Jumbo (our second ice cream wafer treat of the day) and returned to our hotel. Our hotel room, unbeknownst to me, had a washer / dryer combo, so we took advantage as Oh-Saka (as Justin called it all day) partied on!

Kims in Kyoto

We slept early and so well, that waking up to observe the Buddhist morning ceremony wasn’t too difficult. We weren’t able to take photos during, but we enjoyed the chants huddled around a heater that started at 6:30 am and ended around 7 am. We were able to take photos before and after the ceremony at Jokiin Temple:





I had made a donation and checked off prayer requests on sheets provided in our room for safe driving, good relationships, and family well-being to name a few and gave it directly to the monk. Shortly thereafter, another employee rushed to the room to give me an amulet with well wishes and incense as a thank you gift:



Our temple breakfast was again vegetarian and very well prepared with fish cake, pickled vegetables, and soup:



Their version of Catholic guilt: “Good morning. Please remember, even one grain of rice has a power of the universe. Please remember, even one drop of water contains heaven and blessings. Please appreciate nature. Enjoy your breakfast.”:



After packing up the car, descending the mountain was easier than yesterday’s climb and we headed north to Kyoto which took about 2 hours. I had been to Kyoto in 2017 as well and reread my posts to prepare for this trip: http://leadingalifeofcyn.blogspot.com/search/label/Kyoto

Our first stop was Fushimi Inari Taisha which is famous for its many torii gates and is south of Kyoto:









After realizing we didn’t properly activate the parking sensor, we properly paid and traversed the city to Kinkaku-ji Temple, otherwise known as the Golden Pavilion. This is a Zen temple covered entirely in thin layers of pure gold:





It was idyllic as we saw this egret standing in front of the temple:





After being disappointed by their snack options, we went to nearby Ryoan-ji and found a snack stand in front of the temple complex. We noshed on mitarashi dumplings or rice flour dumplings and yuba-man or steamed pork bun:



Then we were ready to enter and the garden and lake at the temple were littered with cherry blossoms:











There were other flowers in bloom too:



But the purpose was to see the world famous zen garden; as my mom points out, they sell replicas at the Metropolitan Museum gift shop:

A basin for ritual hand and mouth washing:



On our way out, we stopped by the same snack stand for frozen yogurt and I ordered the black sesame:



We then headed east and parked near Philosopher’s Path. Here’s a photo of when I visited in December 2017:



And here it was today:















We walked up the nearby hill to the “Silver Pavilion” which is called Higashiyama Jisho-ji:









Justin and I walked up another hill behind the pavilion on the scenic route which has a nice view:





After exiting with hordes of tourists, we walked down the hill and delighted in strawberry snacks:



And popped into a café where my mom ordered another red bean and mochi snack, and Justin and I had green drinks - matcha latte and melon soda:



By this time, all sight-seeing spots were closing as it was around 5 pm and we were beat. So we headed to our hotel. I had booked Kyoto Takasegawa Bettei which is a mix of old and new Japanese - for instance, our futon style beds are elevated (not on the floor) and we have a cypress wooden tub replete with L’Occitane toiletries:





I stumbled upon this option and with hotel prices being astronomical, instead of the usual two rooms, found a family room and needed hotel parking. After resting, my mom and I grabbed a bus a few blocks from our hotel and headed north to Shijo and Kawaramachi streets famed for shopping. We also stopped by Nishiki Market which is noted for its Japanese wares, but most shops were closed.

After buying some needed toiletries, we stumbled upon a yakiniku restaurant that may have been run by Koreans. My mom had bibimbap and I had a few Yakitori sticks. Then we hopped back on the bus back to the hotel.

The Kims had a full day today and despite the warnings of traffic and parking difficulties, did great. Although taking public transit is pretty easy here, with the 3 of us and Justin’s Japanese, we’re able to figure out the parking and hop around easily. I think our threshold for congestion is also higher, but the Japanese definition for traffic is much lower - when the Google maps line showed red, the traffic actually keeps moving just like us!