Pompeii & Sorrento

On our last day in Rome, it rained. I declared that Italian weather is as fickle as their men - just kidding! We checked out of our AirBnB and had our usual Roman breakfast. We walked to the H bus stop to take the 20 minute bus trip to Rome Termini, the main train station. Our walks with our luggage have been interesting - clickety clack on the cobblestones of Italy!

We arrived at the train station and got on our high speed train to Naples. The trip took about an hour and our hotel, Ibis Styles is located two blocks from the Naples train station. However, we were a bit disoriented and we had to make a loop. When we arrived at our hotel, we rested and then quickly returned to the train station to go to Pompeii!

The Circumvesuviana train line takes you to the Herculaneum and Pompeii ruins - the trip is about 40 minutes. As we all studied in school, Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD and around 1748, people found ruins that had been covered in 13 to 20 feet of volcanic ash. As such, the Pompeii ruins were well preserved and we can imagine what life was like in this incredibly impressive city. They estimate about 11,000 lived here across 170 acres. You could spend hours exploring and learning.

Amanda suggested we download Rick Steves' 38 minute walking tour on our iPhones instead of getting an audio guide or searching through the maps. I have to say, I've never used his guidebooks, but have watched his shows. Amanda brought his book on this trip which has been super helpful and detailed! His guide hit all the highlights wth great details and dorky jokes, which I loved!

Pompeii, in its glory, can really be summarized in photos, so here goes!

Here's the entrance to the city and the main gate:



Here's a view of the forum:



The forum is lined with buildings, temple, the Curia, basilica, and other buildings. Thought the arch is Mt. Vesuvius, but covered by clouds:



Here's the market and a sample of a preserved body. The archaeologists filled the skeletons with plaster:



Here's a Roman bath and a fast food joint where people cooked and sold food on the side of the street:



We had some fun recreating the fast food joint that Rick Steves called McCaesar's - here I'm cooking up fries:



Here are some columns in the courtyard of House of Faun. Many columns were covered in marble veneer, but were actually made of brick - that's why it is important to scratch the surface and look on the inside! Also a random building and a water fountain with a bull's head at a busy intersection:



We walked to one of the busiest buildings, the brothel. I didn't post pictures, but there were rooms with beds and sexual frescoes that was apparently used like a menu, as remarked by a tour guide. Here's a picture of the many streets, a courtyard near the amphitheater, and a selfie with Amanda in the theater:



We walked over to the Villa of the Mysteries which has beautiful frescoes - in the buildings, I really enjoyed the Pompeiian red!:



Another villa with frescoes and an ornate mosaic floor:



We were thinking about heading back to Naples, but as our train line goes to and we were near Sorrento, we took the 20 minute train ride to this lovely town on the Amalfi Coast. Here's a view of the bay, a side street, and one of the piazzas:



Travel and Leisure magazine recommended a 3 generation run restaurant called Parrucchiano, which was near the cathedral. Our convivial waiter topped off our wine glasses, and we enjoyed octopus, mussels, fish, seafood pasta, tomato salad, and fried zucchini:



After dinner, we walked comfortably back to the train station for the hour ride back to Naples to rest after our productive day!

Under the Roman Sun

It didn't rain today! Amanda and I were overjoyed and we made the most of the weather today by enjoying ruins and many outside sites!

We woke up and were careful to not get too excited about the weather, but ultimately it was sunny and dry all day! After breakfast cappuccinos and I had another cornetto, we walked to the Colosseum. Here's the glorious Tiber River and Tiber Island basking in the sun:



We arrived at the Colosseum for our 9:40 am 3 circle tour that Amanda booked. This allows access to more levels! Our guide, Barbara provided simple explanations of history as we entered the arena, went to the first level, and to the top level. Here are some photos at various levels:



Here are some views from the top level of nearby Palatine Hill, the arch, and Roman Forum:



As a throwback, a family picture from 1992:



Afterwards, we went to Palantine Hill, the site of ancient palaces and connected to the Roman Forum. We enjoyed the lovely views - especially of the Colosseum, the gardens, and the ruins:



We exited Palantine Hill into the famous Roman Forum. As we walked through the Roman Forum, we enjoyed chatting about the sites of vestal virgins, temples, and the many columns. We saw the site where Julius Caesar was cremated and learned many other notable facts about the forum. Here are a variety of columns:



Also, here's a throwback picture of my family in front of the forum:



We exited and walked up to Capitoline Hill to Piazza del Campidoglio, where there are 3 palaces and more notably, a square and steps designed by Michelangelo. Also here, we saw a statue of the she-wolf and the twins Romulus and Remus, the legend of which Rome got its namesake. Here are some photos:



At this point, we're right next to the Vittoriano Monument which commemorates the first king of Italy who united the country. In my mind, it was a much larger and elaborate Lincoln Memorial. They had a few exhibits, including an extension of the Milan World Expo regarding Korean dining. Here we received samples of Korean treats and I tried to act Korean:



As we left the monument, we were able to see the soldiers who guard the tomb of the unknown soldier, also honored by an eternal flame. Here are a few perspectives:





There's also one of the largest equestrian statues in the world. Here's a photo of it and a view of the rotary in front of the monument (just like DC):



Nearby was the Trajan Forum and the Trajan column. Apparently, the frieze on the column tells the story for Remus and Romulus and can be unraveled to the length of two football stadiums!



We then walked over to a cute neighborhood called Monti to a restaurant called La Carbonara. Here I enjoyed the namesake and Amanda had an excellent pasta as well with tomatoes and pistachios. At the restaurant, we planned the rest of the day to make sure we squeezed in the latest sights on our last full day in Rome.

Near the restaurant was the St. Peter in Chains where the church holds the supposedly original chains that bound Peter. Also here is Michelangelo's Moses statue which is in front of Pope Julius II's tomb. Moses apparently has horns, because in an incorrect translation of biblical stories, the word for "rays" can be translated into "horns". Oops. I guess the Vatican Museum audio guide should consider re-editing the fact that Michelangelo had an excellent grasp on the Bible. Here are a few photos of Moses:





And St. Peter's chains in the altar:



We then tried to go to the Mouth of Truth to potentially recreate the famous scene from Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. Unfortunately there was a long line - so here's a photo of the sculpture and a throwback photo from my 1992 family trip:





With only about 2 hours left in the day before sites closed, Amanda and I split up. Amanda ventured to the Protestant Cemetery where poets Shelley and Keats are buried. I went to Laterano via the #3 tram to see the Basilica of San Giovanni. This is the first Basilica of Rome and was where the Pope was based prior to St. Peter's Basilica. Now it's where the Bishop of Rome is seated. It was easy to find as there was an obelisk in the plaza. The church is beautiful - a few photos below:



The front doors are originals from the Roman forum. I also enjoyed the children's choir that was singing - hopefully you can see and listen to the videos:



Across the street were the Holy Stairs. Apparently, these are the steps Jesus walked on, was transported here, and a chapel was built at the top. The marble stairs are now protected by oak wood and is considered a pilgrimage site. You are supposed to go up the stairs on your knees. I indulged in the experience. 28 steps doesn't seem bad, but I forgot I had these trivets on my hiking pants to allow them to become capris, which was very painful, but I made due. Other pilgrims kneeled on pillows and handbags.

When I first started there weren't many people, but when I looked behind, there was a whole crowd. Also there were a few slow pilgrims - so I followed a nun up the stairs. It was like I was following an ambulance in traffic! Here's a photo before I went up and as I was leaving:



I returned to the same tram and was passing by the San Clemente Basilica and decided to get off. This 12th century church was built on top of a 4th century church that was built on top of a 2nd century Mithraic temple. This 3 tiered complex really gives you insight on the original ground level of Rome.

I then returned to the tram - in the middle of the ride back, you switch to a bus to follow the same tram line to Trastevere which was a little confusing, but very easy.

Back at the apartment is where I met Amanda and rested before our final dinner in Rome. We ended up at Lucia in our neighborhood. We ate lots of vegetables, Cacio e Pepe, panna cotta, fruit, and pictured below are veggies and oxtail. The service was great and the restaurant was adorable.



Rome, you have redeemed yourself today! We're sad to go and there's more to see, but Amanda and I agree we have conquered your city!

Vatican

This morning, we were encouraged by the early sun! As we started walking toward the Vatican, it started to downpour, again. I feel like it always rains when we want to go outside! We stopped in a cafe for a breakfast cappuccino and a cornetto - the Italian version of a croissant.

We then tried to find the bus, which we missed, and then had to walk in the pouring rain. We did manage, however, to get to the Vatican museum on time. We had reserved tickets at the Vatican museum at 9:30 am. Amanda had researched it all and thank goodness for the pre-booked tickets! There were massive lines and so many tour groups. I can't imagine what it's like during the peak of the summer.

The first part of the museum has a courtyard and the Etruscan and Greek sculptures and artifacts. A few pictures below:







Then we walked through numerous galleries - here's a picture of the Gallery of Maps:



One of today's highlights was the Rapahel rooms - several frescos filled with amazing detail. Here are two of them - "The School of Athens" and "The Coronation of Charlemagne":



However, the point of going to the museum, is really to see Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel. The frescos were painted in four years and the amount of detail is unbelievable. I sat here for awhile enjoying the audio guides that Amanda had pre-booked. Unfortunately, you cannot take photos in this holy room - the location of the conclave when electing the pope.

We then went to the Pinacoteca galleries. Here is Leonardo Da Vinci's "St. Jerome":



Caravaggio's "Descent from the Cross":



And four Raphael paintings:



Indeed, we saw the works of three out of four Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles at the museum! Just kidding...

At this point, we were a bit hungry, so we went to a nearby restaurant where Amanda had the Cacio e Pepe and I ordered a caprese panini. We both also enjoyed a glass of wine. We then headed to St. Peter's square where we stood in line for about 2 hours in the rain to get into the Basilica. Here's a picture of our experience:



As a throwback, here's a photo of three out of four Kims in the same square in 1992:



After having to call out a few people for trying to cut the line, we finally made it to the front. Ironically, this is when the sun came out! We entered the beautiful Basilica which is as ornate as I remembered. Here are some photos of the dome, Bernini canopy, and vaulted ceilings:



Here are some more incredible works and the chapel where Pope John Paul II is interred:



And of course, we saw Michelangelo's "Pieta" which I recalled being so large and magnificent on my 1992 family trip:



After a walk through the crypt or the Tomb of Popes and while trying to find Amanda in the crowds, I witnessed the changing of the guard of the Swiss guards. Here's a collage of them - wearing their nice raincoats, you don't get to fully appreciate their unique uniform:



After we left St. Peter's square, we tried to walk home, but unfortunately the Roman gods were not smiling upon us as it began to rain, again. So we walked and then decided to jump into a cab. We got home and rested for a bit while it down poured outside. We then ventured out to a restaurant near our apartment where it was lively and crowded. We enjoyed eavesdropping on nearby customer conversations as we were cramped in. I had the carbonara and fried Roman artichoke while Amanda had a pizza - a photo below:



We then headed home to relax for our final day in Rome. Unfortunately, I think it's supposed to rain again tomorrow. Forget the nickname of "the Eternal City", I'm calling it "Rainy Rome"!

Rome

We woke up in Milan to pouring rain. After breakfast at our hotel, we walked the two blocks to the Milan train station where our train to Rome was running about 10 minutes late. Our 3 hour train trip arrived in Rome about 30 minutes late - Amanda and I read a little on the trip and I napped a bit, while a teenage boy sitting with his father seemed eager to chat with us. Unfortunately, we were not feeling that chatty.

Upon arrival to Rome Termini, we took the H bus for about twenty minutes, dropping us off in Trastevere where our AirBnB apartment was located. We met up with our host who led us our cozy studio on the Piazza del Castilo.

After dropping off our bags, we headed to the Santa Maria in Trastevere which is a beautiful church about a block away. Here's a picture of the altar:



We then decided we were going to walk and meander as we didn't have any concrete plans. We crossed the Tiber river below:



And made our way to Campo Del Fiori which is an outdoor market and has a statue of Giordano Bruno, a monk that was burned at the stake - a picture of both below:



We then walked by embassies and government buildings to arrive at Piazza Navona where Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers is located with statues representing rivers from various continents with an obelisk in the middle. The four rivers represented are: the Danube, Ganges, Plata, and Nile. I also had my first flashback to the movie, "Angels & Demons" where Tom Hanks is running around Rome trying to find hostages! I'm sure Amanda enjoyed my questions like, "do you think that fountain is deep enough for people to swim in?" Clearly Dan Brown and the makers of the movie had a creative license to the details of Rome! Some photos below:





We then decided to have ice cream at Tre Scalini known for their chocolate! You can see our happy faces!



Our happy faces harken us back to a picture Amanda shared with me! She was last in Rome at the age of four:



We then walked over to the Pantheon which is an ancient temple converted to a church. This architectural marvel with an amazing dome was originally founded in 27 BC, with single granite columns and the first two Kings of Italy buried here. Also buried here is Raphael and pictured below is a sculpture commissioned by him called "Madonna of the Rock":





There are two Jesuit churches nearby and we decided to go into Sant Ignazio, where there is a fake dome and a 3D baroque ceiling by Andrea Pozzo. Below is the facade and the altar:



It was really difficult to capture the impressiveness of the ceiling, but on the right, you can see how you can be tricked into seeing as if the leg is coming out from the fresco:



We passed by this colonnade which has 2 folks dressed like gladiators. It's the remaining part of the Temple of Hadrian in the Piazza del Pietra. The gladiators make me think of the Sesame Street characters and the superheroes that hang out in Times Square in NY:



We finally made it to the Trevi Fountain which was unfortunately undergoing construction. I vividly remember the gushing waters when I was a kid and my mom insisting we throw coins into the fountain in between the crowds. Here you can see a collage of the scaffolding, coins in the dry fountain, and the workers who are trying to make it look like new:

Unique to the experience, is that they built walkways, so you can actually walk over the fountain and be closer to the statues - here's a lovely picture of Amanda on the walkway:



After the fountain, we made our way to the Spanish Steps! I remember when I was a kid, I had a caricature done of me here during one of the nights of our vacation in 1992. Today, it was raining and there were colorful umbrellas of the many tourists. There were flowers up and down the steps which we enjoyed, and at the bottom of the steps, is the Boat Fountain by Bernini as well as the house of Shelly and Keats. Apparently Byron also lived just across the plaza. Here are a few photos of the Spanish steps as we went up:



Here are some views from the top and on the way down:



Before my childhood trip to Rome, my mom had us watch Roman Holiday with Audrey Heoburn and Gregory Peck. Back then, we enjoyed ice cream walking down as my mom wanted to relive that scene. In honor of Audrey Heoburn and Mama Kim, both classy ladies, I indulged in my second cone of ice cream for the day:



We then walked toward Piazza del Popolo where there is again, an obelisk and a church, the Santa Maria del Popolo. Here in the chapel next to the altar are two Caravaggio paintings: The Crucifixion of St. Peter and the Conversion of St. Paul. You can see they are exquisite:



In the Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael, are four statues, two of them by Bernini. The chapel pays homage to the Pantheon with a dome. This is also where I had my second "Angels & Demons" moment. A photo collage below of the Chigi Chapel:



As we were hungry and a bit tired, we decided to go to Antica Enoteca where Amanda ordered the Cacio e Pepe, a very Roman dish, and I had the Capricioso pizza. A photo of our meal:



As we sat and enjoyed relaxing, it began to really downpour. We eventually braved the rain and walked over to the Spanish Steps metro. The trains were very crowded, but not as bad as the 6 train on the Upper East side. We were hoping to easily transfer to the H bus at the Republica stop, but apparently you have to be prepared to wave down the bus, practically in the street, and we let two of them pass by! After waiting awhile and second guessing ourselves, we couldn't bear to stand in the rain any longer and hailed a cab. We didn't originally hail a cab as most cabs prefer picking up passengers at stands. I'm hoping our "not for the win" moment of standing in pouring rain will be our lowest moment of the trip! However, it wasn't that bad as I like to chalk it up to adventure.

We made it back to our apartment, sopping wet, but pleased that we saw so much of the city on our first day!