Sintra

When we chatted with the local restaurant owner at lunch that we went up and down hills, he said “welcome to Sintra”. Indeed the city is on a hill and with curvy paths that felt like being on a roller coaster at times…but it was wonderful and magical!

Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has a great number of preserved or classified architectural buildings. So after our hotel breakfast, we left our charming hotel where I watched a beautiful sunrise and we listened to chirping birds. Here’s a collage of the morning:



We were told we could find tuk tuks just down the road and in front of Sintra palace. Unfortunately there were none, so we called an Uber who drove us across the hill on the one way route which took us about 20 minutes and dropped us off at The Pena Palace - a national monument and representative of Romanticism. We had timed entry tickets and had also purchased the bus transport up the hill which was also open air per Tresa’s demonstration:



The palace is colorfully painted and is going through some restoration. Some photos from our visit:

Here’s Mary Ann on a turret and she also took a photo of me on a landing:





You can see the western coast of Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean from the castle and as we posed beneath the arches:





There was an ornate chapel with bright stained glass. One of the windows depicted Vasco do Gama in front of the Belem tower which we visited just a few days ago...





We enjoyed a quick drink at the café where our moms were sporting sunglasses, looking cool with local drinks such as a Portugal Pepsi!



We then entered the palace to see the interiors and the impressive furniture and decor!













As we headed down the hill on the bus, we met some Americans originally from Oregon who were very friendly. We exchanged local tips and itineraries. They said they were going to visit the Montserrat Park and we peeked into the garden and walked down to the road. Here’s a view of the palace from the road:



And here’s us on the road trying to evaluate how to get to the next destination, the Moorish Castle. Unfortunately, none of the taxi or tuk tuk drivers would take us as it was too close and going backwards on the one way road. So we walked slowly as we were in no rush.



Our next Sintra stop was Castle of the Moors built during the 8th and 9th century, and situated on a hilltop. There’s a bit of a walk to the main castle from the road, but we enjoyed the views on this beautiful day! We then climbed part of the castle wall and to the top!

Mary Ann and me in front of the flag of Portugal and at the top:

We then headed down as we negotiated narrow walkways and tried not to photobomb others:





Mama Kim also took photos of us going down as she did not go to the very top…



We then climbed into a Jeep to descend the hill and to find lunch in town. We learned our driver is from the north, but moved to Sintra after meeting his finacée online and who was from Sintra. He recommended a few restaurants and we decided to try a tapas place - we shared a cheese plate, eggs, and a caprese salad with some light sangria.





We then took a tuk tuk ride to Quinta da Regaleira which is near our hotel and also a famous palace:



The most popular site here though is the Initiation Well which was apparently used for tarot initiation rites. We walked up the hill and winded down the inverted well which was super unique. Mama Kim didn’t know what to expect, but was in awe during the entire experience:





Here’s a selfie looking up from the bottom:



And as we exited, we saw a small waterfall in underground tunnels and grottos and cute ducks in a fountain...





Then we ran into the Oregonians who originally thought this was closed today, but since we let them know it was open, they decided to check it out today. We enjoyed some beverages together and shared foot sizes and discussed working from home life…



As this was the last stop of the day, we then meandered back to our hotel…



We picked up our suitcases, packed our car, and then drove to the plaza to do some light shopping. After our purchases, we drove about an hour east to the airport and checked in at the Meliá Lisboa. Mama Kim was tickled by the hotel decor which included hallway lights and room numbers on the floor - definitely embracing that airport hotel vibe. 

We didn’t stay long as we had reservations at Cantinho do Avillez in the Parque das Nações neighborhood which seemed filled with restaurants and is just 10 minutes away. The neighborhood was also the site of the World Expo in 1998 and would have been cool to check out if it wasn't already so dark. We did see a cable car and a tower apparently named after Vasco do Gama!

The restaurant itself is owned by the famous Jose Avillez who has several Michelin restaurants, but this chain represents his casual fare. We ordered a pork sandwich, 21st century Professor eggs, mushroom risotto, scallop risotto, pork chop, papaya with lime mousse, and a chocolate cake with strawberry ice cream. We paired it with also a full-bodied and brawny red wine from the Douro Valley. A collage below of our meal:



After dinner we walked on the promenade and dropped off most of the crew back at the hotel. Then Tresa and I returned the rental car at the airport and walked back on our last night in Portugal!

Fátima & Óbidos

Mary Ann and I walked to the Hertz just about 15 minutes away after breakfast and checking out of the Sofitel. I wanted to get to the rental place early as I find waiting for a car very frustrating in city rental car locations. Indeed that was the case after our trek uphill and waiting over 20 minutes.

After the wait, we were given a Range Rover and we picked up the rest of the crew and packed a very tight trunk. I had been concerned with compact SUVs in Europe and knew 5 large suitcases wouldn’t fit. Everyone was mindful by consolidating and I even managed to bring a carryon only.

Then we drove northward for 90 minutes to Fátima, a famous pilgrimage site. It was reported in 1917 by three shepherd children - Lúcia dos Santos and her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto had seen the Virgin Mary several times.

Since then, one of the largest Marian Shrines was constructed, called the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fátima, including the Basilicas of Our Lady of the Rosary and of the Holy Trinity and the Chapel of the Apparitions. Approximately 4 million visit yearly and on a Sunday, the closest free parking lot for pilgrims was full, so we parked on the street for just 2 euros for the maximum 4 hours.

Here are some photos of the large complex and on this beautiful spring day:









We saw a queue and hopped in without initially knowing what it was for - we quickly learned this is where we light candles and Mary Ann found the candle seller which required a simple donation:



Afterwards, we found seats in the Chapel of Apparitions where one of the viewings took place. We waited for the 12:30 pm mass to start by claiming side seats and watching pilgrims circling the altar on their knees:





After I gave the mass only 4 stars because it went over an hour, we walked to the famous oak tree where more apparitions apparently took place:



Then we finally made our way up the steps and into the Basilica where the three children are buried:



The basilica is adorned with stained glass illustrating the apparitions of Mary visiting the three shepherd children:



On the sides of the Basilica were the stations of the cross. Coincidentally, we saw a large group doing the stations with a large cross and loudspeaker:



And as we left, I visited the piece of the Berlin Wall that had been brought here:



After stopping in a shop, we climbed into the car and left the main sanctuary. We circled the rotary which has the Monument of the Three Little Shepherds…



I thought I was being smart by driving to a parking lot in Valinhos, under ten minutes from the Sanctuary, but the road was under construction. So after passing the shepherds’ homes, I parked next to an ice cream stand. We then walked up the rocky road and then switched to the paved path to view the Calvary which apparently was donated by Hungarians. Here there are monuments for where the little shepherds saw Mary like this one here:



And Stations of the Cross - the apparition apparently happened between the 8th and 9th station. Below I’m standing in front of the 10th as it’s my favorite number:



We also saw another group doing the Stations and many holding the Ukrainian flag. We then made it to the top where the Angel of Peace is located and another apparition location:



Here’s Mary Ann modeling on the path and amongst the olive trees:



After some ice cream and some table linen purchases, we climbed into the Range Rover - here are some views of me driving today and the Portuguese countryside:



Just one hour south and exactly halfway to our next destination, is a castle town called Óbidos. Here you can see it on top of the hill:



I had read it was a must-see location and beautiful village with a unique church. Little did I know that today was the popular chocolate festival and tv show tapings in the village - so there was traffic and the streets were serpentine. This definitely tested my driving skills as Google Maps was not being super helpful - it struggled to map my location and I was forced to take steep embankments and make hairpin turns. We also made our way to the top of the hill, to only have to turn around in a small parking area. This is not for the faint of heart and the reason why cars are so small in Europe!

Here’s a cute, but not crowded street and then some photos to show you how crowded and narrow it was as some streets were two-way!







I offered to give up as I thought the church I wanted to see was not up high and Mama Kim gasped at every turn which I did not find to be helpful. She told me she forgets how fearless I can be, but I maintain I’m a good driver despite my small hands! Although giving up was an option for me, but the Thomas sisters, true to form, were in it to win it and up for the adventure. We committed by parking, and walking a little to find the church while the moms rested. Here are some photos:









After some trial and error, we found the Church of Santa Maria in Óbidos, the setting for the wedding of King Afonso V in the 1400’s, and known for the iconic Portuguese tile adorning the walls. It apparently was also used as a mosque at some point. Some photos of the church that was the inspiration of our detour:







The plaza in front was active with granny’s apparently trying to get on tv and chocolate lovers. This is according to the vendor who sold us some fresh squeezed orange juice that we just can’t get enough of!



We then braked down the hill, got on the highway, and drove about an hour to Sintra which is famous for its many UNESCO sights. Most tourists take a day trip from Lisbon, but I didn’t think our moms would enjoy the rush of the train ride and back. So I booked us at the Lawrence Hotel, apparently the oldest hotel in Sintra and had really nice reviews. It was also conveniently located next to some sights. The rooms are named after famous people who had stayed here - ours was Jane Lawrence, the original hotel owner and the Thomas Trio were in Eça de Quéiros, considered the best realist writer of Portugal.

We were able to park in one of the two spots in front instead of schlepping to the parking garage and settled into adorable quaint rooms with balconies. We opted to enjoy dinner in the hotel instead of trekking to the village and were offered tasty port at check-in. Although famous in Portugal, it was my first time drinking it on the trip. A photo of us at dinner:



We also opened up two of the cans we bought at Sol e Pesca yesterday - the traditional sardines in spicy tomato sauce and curry mackerel with some white wine hit the spot after a long day!



For dinner, we started with ceviche, and then ate leg of lamb, risotto with sea bass, and pork cheeks. Then for desert, we had their famous crème brûlée, chocolate cake, and Sintra cheese tart. A collage below:



After being at the world famous shrine, we are kicking it up in the most famous hotel of Sintra according to the hotel clerk!