Mossel Bay to Swellendam

This morning we met the other co-host of the Bed and Breakfast and she was just as lovely. On the Garden Route, I decided to book independent B&B’s to add to our road-tripping experience and so far, so good. We had a lovely breakfast with fun cups while looking at the bay:





Mossel Bay is halfway between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town - 400 km or 250 miles on each side and a popular stopping point for international visitors on the Garden Route. It is also known as the first place where Europeans landed on South African soil - it was on 3 February 1488, by Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias.

As such, today we visited the museum named after him, built near the landing site and the spring they found to refill their water supplies:



We tried to avoid the horde of Chinese tourists that arrived by bus at the same time as us and enjoyed the maritime museum first. The museum had many maps and a replica of Dias’ caravel or sailing ship:







Afterwards, we perused the shell museum and the braille garden where the visually impaired can read and feel the plants, but the famous stop here is the Post Office Tree. Apparently in 1501, another Portuguese navigator, Pedro de Ataide, on his return from the east, left a letter in a shoe and hung it from a milkwood tree. The report was found by the explorer to whom it was addressed, João da Nova, and this tree was a post office of sorts for decades for the sailors. Now there is a boot-shaped post box under this over 500 year old tree. Mail shipped from here actually gets a special commemorative stamp! Here’s Amanda mailing our postcards:







We also found the padrão which is a stone pillar left by Portuguese maritime explorers in the 15th and 16th centuries - it records significant landfalls and thereby establish primacy and possession:



We then walked around the grounds and also took our Mossel Bay selfie:





Ann and Hattie who we met yesterday at Knysna said they stayed at a hotel made up of old train cars near the Mossel Bay beach - we presume the trains cars in our selfie is where they stayed.

After getting our steps in, we then headed back on to the N2 highway for just under 2 hours. We stopped for coffee at Ikigai which apparently means “a reason for being” in Japanese and chatted with the lovely owner. He said they also had a location at our next stop in Swellendam.



Also, here in paying with cash for our roobois lattes, we realized and got excited that each of the South African bill notes have the Big Five - animals are everywhere in South Africa:



While listening to another audiobook, we safely made it to Swellendam which is the 4th oldest town in South Africa. It is famous for Cape Dutch architecture and has many historical buildings and sites. We checked in at Marula Lodge with Walter. The lodge has a nice pool, but unfortunately it’s been raining all day.



Walter suggested having lunch at the Republic which we found easily after driving through town. Amanda had a salad and I had a Swellendam Bobotje or a spiced mince meat casserole, that was tasty with vegetables, rice, and pumpkin fritters:



After lunch, I visited the local church which is very white and built in 1911. It’s pretty plain inside as it’s Dutch Reformed Protestant. Apparently, it’s eclectic style mixed in with baroque, gothic, and even eastern. The steeple is a replica of a famous steeple in Belgium:





Then I visited the Drodsty complex. Initially, I visited the Ambagswerf or artisan yard behind the old jail house. It had different structures and items on display on how folks would live hundreds of years ago as a tanner, coppersmith, woodworker, and etc. It felt like Shaker Village in the Berkshires or Colonial Williamsburg. The signs were thoughtful all around as they acknowledged they are working to build in better information about the multiracial living conditions and the use of slavery. This is unlike other signs we have read at other places that seemed to gloss over this part of history. Here’s the artisanal yard:



Here, I also saw pairs of helmeted guineafowl with their offspring, but didn’t get the photo in time before they went behind some bushes. So here’s some geese that were just walking around:

Then I went to the main part across the street which is the Drodsty itself. It is one of Swellendam’s oldest buildings and the magistrate’s residence built in 1747. A photo of the exterior, the kitchen, and breakfast room:







After peeking at the barn, I walked through their nursery and then down the garden path to the next building in the complex:





The final building was the Mayville which was home to a prosperous 19th century family. It had lovely furniture inside, but my one photo was of the dining room:



Then I returned to Marula Lodge and napped. Tonight they are load shedding in the area or essentially having controlled blackouts to manage the grid usage. All the hotels we’re staying at mentions this and have generators. The WiFi and lights work, but anything plugged into outlets does not. We hadn’t experienced a load shedding night, or at least that I’m aware of before. But we managed and made due as we balanced work and blogging! 

Plettenberg Bay to Knysna to Mossel Bay

Our bungalow hotel has positive vibes all around and we enjoyed a yummy breakfast beside this square pool - this is living!



After breakfast, we stopped by the Heath. It has artisanal shops, a garden / nursery from local farms, and even a bird sanctuary! We skipped the birds, but I personally enjoyed my roobois latte. Here’s Amanda amongst the planters next to the road:



As we were leaving the Heath, I accidentally turned into the wrong lane. I realized it when I saw a car from afar and quickly moved over. This happened as the road was completely empty. Surprisingly, more cars are better as it gives you cues and references, versus receding into your muscle memory; but all is ok and it was bound to happen once. Amanda was very understanding and I continue to chuckle when I turn on my windshield wipers.

Our plan was to stop through Knysna which is a popular tourist destination and a cute harbor. It was unfortunately ravaged by a fire in 2017, which reminds me of Lahaina in Maui, due to strong winds and about 17 people died. We learned that the reinvestment into the community has been important and helpful, and I was happy to support.

Within the lagoon is an island called Thesens Island which is adorable and when we crossed the waterway, we saw these delightful seahorses:



Everything I read said a trip to Knysna would not be complete without a lagoon ride in the warm-water estuary formed by two quartzite peninsula headlands - famously called the Knysna Heads. I tried to research a shorter boat ride, but apparently no one had booked our 45 minute option. So we were upgraded to a 90 minute coastal ride and were paired with Ann and Hattie - a mother and daughter from London. Hattie actually works in both mine and Amanda’s industries, so we had a nice chat and Ann and her husband rented a house for 6 weeks in Knysna.

In the photo below, we are approaching The Heads which is known for the loss of many boats throughout history passing through the unpredictable waters. You could even see the remnants of one shipwreck through the clear water. The Heads also include a nature reserve called Featherbed and there were small beaches and restaurants on the peninsula to enjoy being on or near the water.



Since we were leaving the estuary, the water got pretty choppy in this coastline tour:



But we enjoyed the views:





They call this The Nostrils:



This is Eagle Cave:



Some photos of the boat passengers - Hattie and Ann:



Us with our captain, Johannes:



They call this the Whale Tail:



As we passed by The Heads from the ocean…



Our Knysna Heads selfie:



On our way back in, we spotted a seal, but we didn’t see any dolphins as Hattie had hoped:



After the boat ride, Ann treated us to drinks where we enjoyed lemonade and ginger beers:



Knysna is also known for their oysters as they have a famous festival in June. So we drove to the waterfront and had lunch at the Dry Dock and I was excited to have a full meal of fried calamari strips along with oysters shared with Amanda:





We then drove about 80 minutes to Mossel Bay. The view was stunning and the water was sparkling. Ann and Hattie had done the reverse from Capetown as they stopped in Swellendam, Mossel Bay, then Knysna and we’ll be going to Swellendam tomorrow. Here’s a picture from the road:



In Mossel Bay, we went up a few hills and found our hotel, the Aqua Marina Guesthouse. It has 4 rooms and we were greeted by our friendly host who was getting ready to play pickleball. A view of the bay from our hotel:



After resting and a little welcome sherry, we headed out to dinner and saw this lizard on the car - there’s wildlife everywhere!:



We heeded the recommendation of the hotel and we headed to Kingfisher restaurant. We had oysters again, and Amanda ordered white bait, I had mussels in Portuguese sauce which was creamy and spicy, and we shared a Greek salad. I thought having mussels in Mossel Bay would be appropriate!



Today, we were at three different bays / harbors of the Garden Route coastline. And with the boat ride, I told Amanda we have taken South Africa by air, land, and sea!