Panorama Route

After breakfast today, the same travel company, Shearwater, that picked us up was taking us back to Victoria Falls airport. As such, we had to do the border crossing again and Robert was our Zambia driver and passed us off to Francis who was our Zimbabwe driver. The exit stamp and entry process was way calmer than when we arrived as we were the only ones crossing around 7:30 am. Here’s a picture of a lily and a baboon at the customs point:





Also a last view of Victoria Falls from the bridge crossing below:



After crossing, we also picked up more passengers on the Zimbabwe side who needed a ride to the airport. We got to see some craft markets as we entered their resort area. Victoria Falls airport was quiet as our flight was the only one and at 10 am. It was steamy too in the terminals as the air conditioning wasn’t on. Then we boarded for our flight to Kruger Mpumalanga Airport which is in Nelspruit. We left early as the plane was less than half full, took about 90 minutes and travelled a little over Botswana. Here’s a photo of a rhino statue when we landed with our plane from the baggage claim room:



After immigration, we found an ATM to pick up some South African Rand and Amanda had me take this photo:



We then enjoyed some coffee and lunch at the airport. Amanda ordered a salad and I had a halloumi cheese wrap before we picked up our rental car at Avis. This is my first time driving on the left side of the road, but I managed to navigate out of the airport and was surprised to see a herd of impalas just outside the exit:





We headed north to Graskop and the scenery was absolutely lush and green. I definitely drove slower than usual as I was getting my bearings and adjusting mentally on turns and which lane to be in while Amanda cheered me on. Some photos taken by Amanda below:







The road up to Graskop is the start of the famous Panorama Route which is dotted with waterfalls and beautiful viewpoints, centered around Blyde River Canyon, the 3rd largest canyon in the world. The route itself is just 160 km or about 100 miles. We had planned to stop at one of the many waterfalls, but as we were approaching Graskop, it started to rain so we trudged on. Graskop apparently means grassy hill and nearby Pilgrim’s Rest was a village for miners as part of the gold rush. Now they are launching off points for visiting the Blyde River Canyon region.

We arrived at the Graskop Hotel which is on Main Street, but as our room wasn’t ready, they offered us some rooibos tea which means bush tea or red tea and local to South Africa. I had it before when a church friend bought some:



When the room was ready, we were given instructions on driving around back and being let into a gated parking lot where we can park right in front of our room. A photo of our Toyota from the window:



And a view of the garden accessible from our room:



As today was a long travel day and since it was raining, we decided to nap and stay in. Tomorrow will be a big day of exploring the panoramas and we will want to get up early!

Victoria Falls, Zambia Side

A picture of a pretty flame lily, the national flower of Zimbabwe. We happen to see it though on our adventures on the Zambian side of the falls today.



We slept well through the night, and hope we’ve kicked our jet lag after today. We ate breakfast at our hotel where they made our omelettes into squares - a photo here:



We were picked up at 10 am for our Morning Breezer to Devil’s Pool, a formation near the edge of the falls. It took less than 10 minutes to the boat launch site which was well set up and were fitted for life jackets. I made a funny joke about being the last one fitted and then we boarded several speed boats. 

Across several speed boats, was a foursome of ladies from Lusaka - the capital of Zambia, and then about 10 people who were delightful. It was two families spending time together as their sons are getting married in May in South Africa. Also in the group were close friends. The couple bringing the families together includes Daniel who is originally from Zambia and Brett who is from South Africa. The fathers were super proud of their sons - Daniel is getting a PhD in the study of birds and Brett is a lawyer specializing in music law. They also have other interests and specializations, but I boiled it down for you blog fans. 

During our conversations about travel and birding, I brought up my old track coach who had headed up the local Audubon Society and my trip for my old colleague’s wedding in Trinidad and Tobago where I also visited one of the foremost bird sanctuaries (Asa Wright in Trinidad). I tried to flex all my birding knowledge and continued to have cool conversations with the family throughout the day. 

Here’s a photo of us on the speedboat which zipped past rocks and lush landscape and as we approach Livingstone Island, you can see the strong mist from the falls - so smokey!:





Upon arrival, they served a welcome drink made of maize which was not alcoholic, but fermented as we took off our life jackets.



Then we walked across the island and took a pretty picture in front of the falls with the various groups taking turns and near a plaque for Livingstone:











Then at the edge of the island, we first waded through shallow water holding hands. It reminded me of Dunn’s River Falls in Jamaica when we all held hands traversing the falls. But when it was deep enough, we either had to crab walk holding onto ropes or swim against the current. I opted to crab walk to a large formation where we could situate ourselves. The groups would take turns taking the obligatory fun photos at Devil’s Pool where the guides carefully instructed us - Devil’s Pool is only open during low season when the currents and water is manageable. 

We first sat on the ridge and were positioned. The ridge is actually quite wide and suspect during the lowest of the season, the guides study the formations, because they really knew where to step and the nooks and crannies. Here is where we first felt the nipping fish! We were warned they would nip at our skin, but were harmless. We surmised these fish get caught in the pool and just can’t get out. It tickled tremendously when they nipped on my legs and butt!

You could actually see the tourists on the Zimbabwe side along the viewing points we visited yesterday and the rainbows! It was really incredible being so close to the edge and our adrenaline was rushing. But after watching the first foursome go and the guides, I was more at ease. 

Then they ask you to prop on the ridge and lay on your chest. Other members of the group would wait for their turn. Two guides also hold on to your feet as you’re instructed to pose and another guide took endless photos and videos:

After sifting through hundreds, here’s a sampling of our poses:











After our photo shoot, we returned to the formation where we watched the families take their photos and we enjoyed the sound of the rushing water, the mist, and the beauty:







On the way back, I decided to swim instead of crab walk. We swim into the current and then we held hands again in the shallow area. We passed the wife of an apparently famous Zambian singer, so some jokingly asked for her autograph. 

Back on Livingstone Island, we were offered either porridge or a BLT. I opted for the porridge as we chatted more with the families and heard more tips of what to see on our next adventures. They did say they thought Devil’s Pool would be a highlight of our vacation. Here’s a photo of my porridge next to a wooden statue of a crocodile:

Back at the launch site, we were treated to a round of gin & tonic and Pimm’s Cup. The Zambian family who clearly are experienced hosts were so charming and you could tell they were proud of Zambia. Throughout the experience, they pointed out different plants and animals - they run a tobacco farm north of here and seemed to revel in being all together. It was such a delight and hope they visit New York some day, so we can return the hospitality. It could be soonish as Brett helped produce a documentary that might be making its way to a NY festival. A photo of us toasting together:



Back at the hotel, we rested by the pool and then showered as we were headed to our sunset cruise on the Zambezi river. The Zambezi is the 4th largest river system in Africa after the Nile, Niger, and Congo. Our catamaran was called the African Queen with drinks and light bites included as we cruised and enjoyed the breeze!







We were told we would see wildlife as this stretch goes through a game reserve. We saw many hippos popping in and out of the water:



And a family of elephants:



And of course the sunsetting gave off a pretty hue:



When we returned, it was clear our boat-mates enjoyed the included drinks more than us. Some danced with the musicians here who had played “Waka Waka - This Time for Africa”, my vacation theme song, when we were departing:  



After a nap, we opted to go to the shopping center that abuts our hotel where there was a restaurant called Makai. We heard about it from our boat-mates on our way back. They had a DJ and a clubby vibe to ring in the new year. Our server was celebrating her birthday and she was super attentive. She brought Amanda bug spray as she could see them flying around her and bowls of water with lemon so we could clean our fingers. This was thoughtful as we had ordered a pizza and french fries with our ciders, lemonade, and coke:

Indeed the countdown to 2024 began with living on the edge, staying classy, and as we enjoyed another day at Vic Falls as the locals would call it! We even got to hear and see some fireworks as we got ready for bed. Happy New Year from Africa!

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Side

Despite feeling exhausted and going to bed at a normal time to get adjusted to the jet lag, Amanda and I woke up around 3 am. After chatting for a few hours, we headed down for the breakfast buffet where I enjoyed the local South African porridge, omelette, and this ombré latte:



Conveniently, the airport shuttle took us back and we managed to log lots of steps as we had to go back and forth through the terminal for check in, security and customs, and then to our terminal. I also managed to make the check-in agent giggle as I said he had a nice laugh which immediately made him snort laugh. While waiting in the airport bus that took us to our Fastjet plane, I took a photo of our airport hotel:



On the plane, we were treated to a snack box which has a helpful map for all you blog fans as we will fly up to Victoria Falls and back down to Kruger airport on Monday:



In just less than 2 hours and a disinfectant spray later, we could see the mist from a distance as we arrived at Victoria Falls airport in Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls, also known as Mosi-oa-Tunya means "Thundering Smoke” is a waterfall on the Zambezi River. You can really see the “smoke”!



Upon arrival, we had to pay for our visa in USD and in cash and opted for the double entry priced at $45 as we’ll have to return to Zimbabwe when flying back to South Africa. In this area of Zimbabwe, the US dollar is heavily used versus the local currency.

We met Shamiso, our guide arranged by our hotel who drove us about 20 minutes to the national park where we were greeted by a few monkeys. At the park, we had to pay $50 each as we were non-African foreigners to enjoy the “Zim” side. A photo of the monkeys:



Like the other major waterfalls, it traverses borders - here we’re at the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia; Iguazú crosses Argentina and Brazil; and Niagara has the US and Canadian sides. By visiting here, I have completed the trifecta. Here’s a sign comparing the three largest waterfalls. We learned that Victoria Falls is the tallest, Iguazú is the widest, and Niagara has the most volume of water…



The Scottish missionary, David Livingstone identified the falls in 1855 and gave it its colonial name after British Queen Victoria. A sculpture of Livingstone at viewing point #1:



There are 16 viewing points and what’s incredible, we’re here during low season. So the water is least voluminous in November and builds back up again for the peak season which runs from May to October. Apparently December is most popular with the locals as we saw many Zimbabwean families. At its peak, it’s also difficult to see the falls because of the intensity of the mist, so Shamiso said it’s best to take a helicopter then. Plus, it’s so wet that not all the viewing points are reachable on the stone pathways.





Here’s us at stop #2 where you walk down 38 steps and arrive at a viewing platform:





The skies were crisp and the falls beautiful as the sprays created rainbows galore!





















The last stop views the bridge crossing between Zimbabwe and Zambia and handles foot, vehicle, and train traffic as you can see this train:



Shamiso was impressed and surprised how expedient we were and as we left the park, she took a photo of us at the entrance with the Zimbabwe flag on the left:



She then drove us to the border crossing where we exited the car to obtain our exit stamp, and passed us on to Robert, who was going to transport us to our hotel on the Zambia side. It doesn’t make sense for her to deal with the hassle of exit and re-entry. Robert navigated us through trucks across the bridge, then we obtained our entry stamp where Zambia does not require a visa. A photo of the parked cars and trucks as we learned many choose to also walk over and take a taxi as vehicle entry is more expensive:



Robert drove us about 10 minutes north to the Protea Livingstone which is in Zambia’s former capital of Livingstone named after the missionary. We settled in, confirmed our activities, and rested.

We then headed to dinner at the hotel for a buffet dinner that included a super tender goat curry that paired marvelously with the local Mosi beer which shows the thunder!



What a long day as we slogged through on little rest. But I was hyped up as I have played several times Shakira’s World Cup song from 2010, “Waka Waka, This Time for Africa”. Unbelievably, we were in three African countries today!