Saturday, January 6, 2018

Grounded But Still On A High

At 4:30 am, Sang-Nim (상님) and her kind husband woke up and took me to Gimpo airport. Their hospitality has been bar none and so comfortable. I'll miss our breakfasts and talks in and outside the dry sauna!

As I had booked my flights to Japan and then to Korea using points, I decided I could splurge for business class on my return. I chose an American Airlines partner, so I can start racking up my miles flying to Charlotte which is an American Airlines hub for my new job. Consequently, it was a breeze at check-in at the Japan Airlines counter and I had breakfast in the lounge.

However, I had a bit of a snafu at security. I put all gifts in my duffel carry-on in case my parents and brother came to pick me up at the airport. The plan was to have lunch and catch up in Queens, but due to recent blizzard and road conditions, I suggested they not trek out to the airport. Nonetheless, as I was prepared to make an easy handoff of gifts, I didn't realize they had strict liquid rules and my cousin had given me packages of red bean jook or congee. I had to wait for an escort to make sure I checked the whole duffel which left me no time to pick up gifts at the duty free.

Luckily, I had plenty of time in Tokyo for gifts as my one hour transfer turned into 6 hours! Thank goodness for the business lounge where I got to relax and wait for my flight. It kind of made waking up so early a waste, but since the issue is in New York and the plane being delayed from New York due to the storms, I still had to get to Tokyo. The $500 difference in economy and business flight was really worth it considering the delay. I enjoyed the buffet, massage chairs, and a nice view:



I was also given a ¥2,000 food and beverage voucher despite food and beverage being free in the lounge, so I got frozen yogurt and an iced green tea latte while waiting to board. But since I had a sizable balance, I treated a person to a drink behind me and another their sandwich. They bowed to me in gratitude.

That wasn't my only good deed of the day - a family wanted me to switch seats in business class so the three of them could be together. Instead of me being in the middle, I was switched to an aisle 2 rows behind my seat. Easy favors and the stewardesses were super grateful. Here's my welcome champagne in front of my television:



The flight way peaceful and the food delicious. Here are my meals:




Sleeping on a flat bed on an international flight is clutch. However, as we started to enter New York airspace we were told to turnaround. We hung out for 2 hours in Chicago! When I landed, I turned on my phone and my mom had left a message saying she was on the way to the airport to pick me up. I called her and told her to turn around. Luckily, she had not gotten far and just had entered the highway. She said she was getting stir crazy and needed groceries, so she got out of the house.

I napped for the 2 hours in Chicago and then we were off to New York. This is an article on the delays and even 2 planes managed to collide at JFK: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/06/nyregion/jfk-airport-delays.html



We were off to JFK and I must have missed the announcement that was just 30 minutes before we were supposed to land as I had been sleeping, that we were being rerouted to Boston! To my surprise when they opened the jetway after 2 hours of waiting for a gate, we were indeed in Boston:



After another 2 hours of waiting for our luggage, I picked up my bags and got on the shuttle for the rental car center. I had booked online, but they said they couldn’t see the reservation that soon. So I cancelled my Orbitz reservation and picked up a new rental from Budget. In my Ford Focus that had a built in navigation system, I was at my parents' in 3 hours and called Amanda on the way to keep me awake. 


In the morning, I dropped off the rental at White Plains / Westchester airport. What an adventure getting back, but nothing could keep me down. I was on such a high from an amazing trip with my family, I just sang songs to keep me awake and was in such a good mood!

Friday, January 5, 2018

Last Day of the Mini-Sabbatical

On my last day in Korea, I met my dad's other sister for lunch at Garak Market. After my daily breakfast with Sang-Nim (상님) and her husband of yummy bread and cold coffee, I was off on the bus to the market. There I met my aunt, her husband, and my cousin surprised me as he was able to sneak out during his lunch break. We had a wonderful meal and coffee. Here's a photo collage:



Then I headed back on the subway with my aunt and uncle and walked home from the subway. Today was a restful day as I ended up getting organized for my return tomorrow and took a nap. My aunt then came over and asked me to put on one of her Korean dresses, so she can send pictures to someone and I was her size. Here's a selfie:



For dinner, we ordered Korean Chinese food which is comfort food for me! We ate it so fast, I was barely able to take a photo:



Before my aunt left, I taught her how to save contacts in her phone, take dictation, and some other helpful tips. We also took a few selfies, but here's our best one:



Then my sweet niece Yujin (유진) and nephew Jin-hyung (진형), came over to say goodbye. They had crashed on my sofa for weeks on end in New York and are the oldest, so I have a strong bond with them both. Jin-hyung (진형) came straight from his new patent attorney orientation where he comes home on the weekends. He had his luggage in tow and came directly to see me. I love these kids - here are some selfies!





So the last full day of my mini-sabbatical and I fly out tomorrow and hopefully land in New York despite the winter storm. I am so grateful for my family and everyone who had hosted me in different ways - treated me to meals, picked me up at the airport, worried about who was picking me up at the airport, excited to hear about my career transition, come into town from afar, or let me sleep in their homes. These trips are so special and wonderful and I’m sad to go, but excited to start my new adventures at the new job!

Thursday, January 4, 2018

Keeping Warm

I hear it’s super cold in New York due to the bomb cyclone! And although I thought it would be frigid here in Korea, it’s not as cold as I expected and I’ve been keeping warm by paying my respects and seeing friends and family.

When I was in Korea in 2014, it was the last time I saw my mom's 2nd brother and my dear uncle. He unfortunately passed away two years after a long battle with cancer. Here’s a post about the visit:

http://leadingalifeofcyn.blogspot.com/2014/10/memory-lane-literally.html

Today, I paid my respects and he rests at Jeoldusan Church and Martyr Shrine. On the first Thursday of the month, there is a mass for those who are laid to rest there. So Sang-Nim (상님) and I picked up her mother and we drove to the church which was packed. We had to get there almost an hour early just to get seats. The families and loved ones of those who have gone before us, fill the room and wait to hear the names of the in memoriam at the start of the mass. And although I attend a bilingual mass, the popular hymns sung today very much reminded me of going to church with my grandmother during my childhood. I found the whole experience very soothing as I shed tears for my grandmother and uncle.

Afterwards, for lunch, we had mak noodles (막국수) and headed to my 2nd aunt's house. Here’s a collage of the cold noodles, some pancakes, and pork:



Then I made plans to meet my friend, Jeff, in between Shinsa and Apgujeong, 2 very popular neighborhoods. Jeff is a Georgetown and New York friend, and we had coffee at the Coffee Bean as we shared our stories about being in Korea. Here's a selfie before I got on the subway:



I was off to meet my 4th uncle on my dad's side for dinner. I got there early as it didn't make sense to go home first, but the family had arrived early as well! We met at Haru Sushi which is funny, because there are a lot of Harus in New York. The sushi was delicious and we had a nice private room. Here are some photo collages:




My nephew and niece came to New York last year with my aunt and their mom and we talked about Shake Shack, Dinosaur BBQ, John's Pizza, and Junior's Cheesecake - essentially all the eating memories! We had an awesome time running around the city last year. At the end of dinner, the kids, my aunt, and my cousin's wife took a cab home. But my uncle insisted on having coffee with me. So we took the subway a few stops and had a nice chat at a coffee shop. Then my uncle walked me home - ironically when he was first married, he lived in the same building as Sang-Nim (상님). 

As my uncle doesn't drive like my dad (the Kim brothers don't drive), I thought it was special and thoughtful that my uncle walked me home. I waited for the neighborhood bus with my uncle and saw him off. My 4th uncle has also gotten savvy with the smart phone and we had fun taking selfies - look at the sushi clock behind us! He also looks a lot like my grandfather:



What a day of remembrance and catching up with various people. It’s definitely not as cold in New York, and you definitely have to bundle up, but I’m keeping warm by reliving memories and spending time with friends and family!

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Tastings

I'm so lucky to have so many nephews and nieces! Here's a collage of some of them, but not all of them on my mom's side:



The eldest is Yujin (유진) on the bottom right and when she studied abroad in the U.S., she crashed on my sofa and we even traveled to New Orleans together. She and I are just 10 years apart where I’m closer in age to her than her mother who is my cousin!

This morning, she insisted on coming over so we could hang out - so sweet! So Sang-nim (상님) researched a brunch spot. However, we struggled whether to have a western or Asian breakfast. - it’s so difficult to make food decisions sometimes. Ultimately we decided on 37.5, where we had pancakes, omelet, pasta, and Korean rice cake - quite the multi course and international meal! Afterwards, we had fun taking selfies and got coffee. Here are a variety of collages:





This one was put together by my talented cousin, Sang-Nim (상님):



Here are a variety of selfies, including ones of Yujin (유진) in the amazing half sauna in the apartment - we can’t get enough of the sauna:









Around 2:30 pm, my cousin Taekyu (태규) picked me up with his wife and daughter. He had made plans to take me to a private museum called the Korean Furniture Museum. On the way, he had the idea of stopping by Gyedong house - the nickname of my mom's childhood home. There are many memories and pictures of this large house that's now a convent for the Sisters of Notre Dame. It’s that big and many family members have fond memories; and although I don’t, I feel like I do having heard so many stories! Here’s a collage in front of the door:



Then we were off to the museum. My cousin was considerate enough to reserve an English guide. Apparently the prime minister of China, Brad Pitt, and others have come here which has lovely views of Nam Mountain.

We couldn't really take photos of the inside, but it was thorough and informative - the guide did a good job of explaining things, but would visibly get nervous when asked questions. At one point my cousin asked a question in English and I suggested he ask it in Korean. The furniture actually brought back memories of my grandmother and her apartment. Learning the style, traditional use, and meaning behind the pieces were well appreciated. Here are some photos:





Then we went to a café on the 2nd floor at Arario Gallery while we waited for our dinner reservations as we were early. Here’s a collage:



When it was time for our reservation, we went up to the 5th floor to the restaurant called Dining in Space, which had nice views of the city. Here, we had a 12 course meal which was thoughtful and delicious. I really get along with my cousin's family as they have been to New York twice in recent years and we all love to travel, visit museums, and discuss art. We regaled in fun travel stories and I promised to meet my niece when she studies abroad in France. I told her I’ll meet her in France or somewhere in Europe - my cousin loved the idea and being able to follow us on the blog then!





So many courses and tastings! And it’s so hard to make food decisions sometimes, as I’m here to spend time with my family, I could care less about the food (which is so unlike me). In thinking about it, my childhood memories and food experiences, probably made me the self-proclaimed foodie I am today, and always researching cool places to eat when I travel. When I came back to my cousin's apartment, I was offered more food and steak and yesterday, I was offered fried chicken. Truly, this family loves to eat and I fit just right in!

Tuesday, January 2, 2018

Back On The Right

After a restful night, I had breakfast with Sang-nim (상님) and her husband. Then I was off to have lunch with my first aunt and her daughter, Yoon-hae (윤혜). We had lunch at a noodle shop and then had coffee before Yoon-hae (윤혜) went to work. Here's a collage:



I ran an errand and headed back to Sang-nim's (상님) apartment via subway and bus and warmed up in the half sauna. Then I was off again to have dinner with my 3rd uncle and his family. On my way out, I ran into Sang-nim (상님) and she walked me to the bus. Another wonderful cousin host!

The bus got me to my uncle's neighborhood in no time. But google maps failed me, because it didn't give me good walking directions and I couldn't cross through the apartment complexes. The neighborhood also has a lot of embassies and therefore a lot of security as well - my uncle lives on UN Village Road on top of a very steep hill. So I made the game time decision to hop into a cab and he got me up the hill in no time.

Upon arrival, I was surprised as my dad's youngest sister was there too - I didn't expect to see her again after the cemetery yesterday. My 3rd uncle, aunt, and his son along with my aunt and I then went off to Woo Lae Oak where we met the rest of my cousin's, Yeonhang’s (연항) family, pictured below:



Woo Lae Oak is an institution as they have delicious noodles. There was even an Woo Lae Oak in Manhattan and I have many fond memories during my childhood as one of the only Korean restaurants in the city during that time.

Dinner was filled with bbq, noodles, and my cousins' kids got ice cream - one was even a galaxy flavor which was mysterious and very artificial according to the adults. As we were enjoying each other's company, we headed back to my uncle's for fruit and coffee, watched tv, and told more stories.

My uncle is quite savvy with his smart phone and we had fun taking photos together. One is of blue steel, the other duck face!





Then my uncle's driver brought me back at my cousin's. Today was a day of traversing the city and it was good to be back on the right - right lane, walkways, stairs, and escalators. In Japan, they drive on the left side of the road and the traffic on the metros are on the left which would throw me off - I felt like I was bumping into people and self-correcting constantly!

Monday, January 1, 2018

New Years Traditions

Happy New Year from Korea! This morning, my mom's family met at the family gravesite to pay our respects to my grandparents and great grandparents.

Traditionally, we bring offerings of food, liquor, and burn incense after we do 2 full bows and then a half bow. We also take turns as part of generations - my mom's, my cousins and I, and then the generation after us. Here are some offerings:











A few folks represent the generation and light the incense and make the offerings. As I was here from America, I got to do it with my cousin Tae-su (태수) who is a pro at this, leading me through the various steps with my cousins standing behind me:





Then for the generation after me, my cousins' children, those who are headed off to compulsory military service or just got into college got this honor:









We used to all meet at my uncle's house and pay our respects to each other, but since the family has grown so large, we do it at the gravesite. But the fun part for the kids, is they receive New Years money. So to accommodate, we do it all at the gravesite and line up in age order. So anyone who's old enough to earn a salary, has to give to the younger kids. This was my very first time getting to do this as I haven't been in Korea to celebrate New Years since 1999 turned 2000 (I was here for Y2K). That time I was at a receiving age since I was still in college.

Yesterday I made sure to stop by the Citibank. My cousins warned me not to give too much or they'll have to give too much - haha. Also some nephews and nieces who might go to their other side of the family came to make sure to say hi to me. So some of my cousins were surprised and realized they had to pony up more to give to the unexpected kids. In general, there is an agreed amount, but since I'm not here often, and I wanted my nephews and nieces to think they have a cool American aunt, I was a bit generous. I also gave more to those recently accepted into college, passed major tests, or were going to military service.

I enjoyed this too when I was in Korea during the winter - my brother would exclaim he couldn’t fold his wallet! And typically, my brother and I got special envelopes as we would be visiting which was always nice. Some aunts and uncles would even prepare US dollars to accommodate us - they were always so thoughtful. Everyone lines up in age order and goes down the receiving line which also stands in age order - I stood at the very end being the youngest. Look at those smiles!



Here are some candids and photos from the day:













Afterwards, we all split up and headed to our separate households. I went to my 4th uncle's house and everyone changed into traditional Korean clothes. The kids looked so adorable and started playing:



We bowed to my aunt and uncle - here are my cousins and their wives bowing:



And then the kids bowed:



As I was the youngest, I received bows last from the kids - made me feel old, but I enjoyed the experience!



Traditionally, you eat rice cake soup on New Year’s Day. My aunt and my cousins' wives prepared a delicious lunch and I enjoyed it thoroughly. Here’s a photo along with a view of the kids' table:



Conveniently, my dad's sister was going to be nearby at the cemetery for my dad's parents. I didn't know this was so close as my dad's side also had a similar family gravesite, but had recently cremated the remains and moved to a cemetery.

My aunt was bringing my cousin's kids - and another cousin heard I was here, so he came with his daughter. As such, Taesoon (태순) was kind enough to help with a rendezvous and we were able to transfer me to my dad's side for the afternoon. I got to pay my respects on New Year’s Day to both sides of my family! I am so grateful that my cousin, Taesoon (태순) was such a convivial host and super accommodating and flexible with the craziness of coordinating my visits with my various family members.

Here’s a collage of my visit to the gravesite of my great grandparents, grandparents, and my dad's eldest brother:



They were then driving to Seoul proper and dropped me off at my cousin, Sang-nim's (상님) apartment. Sang-nim (상님) is the daughter of my mom's second brother and I spent a lot of time with her and her family when they visited New York. We went out to dinner for some pork bbq and cold noodles called naeng myun - my mom's side of the family specifically loves these dishes!



Back at Sang-nim's (상님) apartment, we chatted and even my cousin, Taelim (태림) called to wish us a happy new year - it was fun to catch up with him as he not only has a great laugh, but he is an avid blog fan! Also, at my cousin's apartment, they conveniently have a half dry sauna which people take turns sitting in - here’s a shot of me in it:



What a day of traditions and I was glad to visit both sides of the family and pay my respects. It’s not always easy trying to see everyone and spend quality time. But today was special as I enjoyed being able to receive bows and hand out money. I definitely remarked a few times that my cousins and I are middle-aged as I barrel down 40! However, I did, deep down underneath, enjoy being able to give out money like I used to receive. I always think about it as paying it forward. I have learned to really appreciate what my family had done for me when I was growing up and learned it’s not always as easy as it seems. That’s why these traditions are so special when I get to participate and be with my considerate and wonderful family!