Lisbon

After our hotel breakfast, we crossed the street and took the 711 bus across town. We passed the zoo and the famous aqueduct and then transferred to the 729 - remember you have to wave down the bus which we took for granted in the heart of the city as they always stop. After 20 minutes, we arrived in the Belem area where there are many sights to see along the river.

We first stopped to see Belem Tower, a 16th century fortification and ceremonial gateway to Lisbon for explorers… 





The line was too long to go inside, so we instead sat on the sea wall and enjoyed wine with a view that was served from a small tuk tuk, and to celebrate Anna’s birthday! She said at this age, she doesn’t looked forward to her birthday, but we were happy to be together and not to drop anything into the river!





The waves can splash up pretty high as we saw one young girl doused in water from the wave jumping over the wall. Luckily, we stayed dry and walked up the promenade and enjoyed the beautiful weather. You can even see large Jesus statue across the Tagus River from the Sanctuary of Christ the King. Mary Ann has excellent eyesight and great biblical puns!



We stopped to enjoy some gelato treated by Mama Kim and we rested and chatted about fishing - you could see many fish and there were many boats docked in the bay, but you are not allowed to fish.



We then walked to the Monument of Discoveries which celebrates the Portuguese explorations from the 15th and 16th centuries. Here are some photos of us trying to act like explorers and pointing:









There’s also a map and compass in front with the years of when the Portuguese “discovered” areas around the world. Here’s Mama Kim trying to look like a compass in front of Korea and a closeup of India:





Since all the tuk tuks were booked, we called an Uber to make our way to a busy dining area and ate lunch at Flor dos Jéronimos which is in front of the monastery. We enjoyed pork, sardines, chicken, and octopus!



Mama Kim and I decided to explore the Jerónimos Monastery while the others wanted to head back. Attached is a church with the remains of both Vasco da Gama, the first explorer to find the route to India and the poet, Luís Vaz de Camões who wrote the opus dedicated to Vasco da Gama called The Luisads. Interestingly, Vasco da Gama was originally buried in Kochi, also known as Cochin and is very close to Anna’s home in Kerala, India. 



We then explored the monastery itself on this glorious spring day…









After dealing with the crowds at the bus stop and all the tourists, we finally boarded the 728 bus and got off at Mercado da Ribeira at Cais do Sodré. The traditional market was closed and the massive food hall was crowded. After a walk around, we strolled down a colorful street to Sol e Pesca, where Anthony Bourdain ate canned fish and seafood. The Portuguese love canned seafood and there are many kinds stockpiled in these establishments and stores!



We then hopped on the metro and made our way back to the Avenida stop which is in front of our hotel. Thank goodness we didn’t take the bus as there were protests about raising the minimum wages. As we rested, we enjoyed some mango slices from Tresa.

For dinner, I had booked a Fado restaurant that was not too far from our hotel. We rode the Gloria funicular up the hill and walked a few blocks to Café Luso which was a bit cavernous. Fado reminds me of jazz and is very sultry, expressing mourning and sadness. Much of the lyrics relate to longing for the seamen who have left and those who are waiting for their return. 

I had originally researched and found a happy hour place, but that closed due to the pandemic. Other Fado bars couldn’t guarantee seating, so we resigned ourselves to Fado and the mandatory price fixe dinner. Our vino verde and meal were lovely with an odd waiter who seemed sporadic. I wish the songs were happier for Anna’s birthday, but they were indeed soulful and the Spanish guitar players were impressive.







We ate a traditional Portuguese soup of potato and cabbage, veal, fish stew, sea bass, chicken, and vegetables au gratin:



For dessert, we enjoyed rice pudding, chocolate mousse, fruit, and ice cream:

Then after crossing the street safely several times, as I like to play crossing guard, we Ubered back to the hotel and for our last night in Lisbon proper. Happy Birthday Anna!