We had arranged for our driver Lalo from yesterday to chauffeur us for most of the day. He drove us to Coyocan, which means “place of coyotes”. It’s a historic center and where Casa Azul or “the Blue House” is located - the famous artist, Frida Kahlo was born and died here, living 36 of her 47 years in this colorful home. It was also a meeting place for Diego and Frida’s intellectual and artistic friends, including some communists and famously Leon Trotsky.
It was donated in 1957 after her death by her husband, Diego Rivera, another famous painter, and turned into a museum. Here you can see the beautiful blue:
Here’s a photo of this artist couple who divorced and remarried, because they couldn’t live without the other - probably one of the most passionate and famous couples:
Here’s the dining area and kitchen:
Where she painted:
And her beds including the one where she died. Due to her physical ailments from polio and a car accident, she often painted lying down with the help of a mirror:
She could view the garden from her room which she loved:
There was another building with her vestments and braces:
After our visit, we walked down to the main Couyucan area including the Plaza Hidalgo and Plaza del Centenario. Here’s our group photo:
The square includes the Parish of San Juan Bautista, finished in 1552, it is one of three oldest parish churches. There’s a courtyard as well and trees growing from the cupola on the roof.
Some of us enjoyed coffee, churros, and ice cream from the places Lalo recommended in the neighborhood and as we leisurely strolled the streets:
We also visited a local artisanal market and on Saturdays, there’s a bazaar in the plaza - such wonderful colors everywhere!
We rendezvous-ed with Lalo and we headed to the last home designed by the Mexican architect, Luis Barragán. He’s the only Mexican and one of a handful Latin architects who have won the esteemed Pritzker Prize. The house is Casa Gilardi and is a private home - but only certain times of the week and with about 3-4 months notice, the family allows visitors to observe this colorful home which showcases the use of natural light, walled off spaces, and very Instagram friendly!
The courtyard:
The downstairs leading to the amazing pool - I gasped when I saw it for the first time. The owner’s son delighted in my surprise and said the view down the hall to the pool was the most famous. I exclaimed I felt like I was walking through an Ellsworth Kelly painting and he nodded:
The pool was amazing - the water so clear and the light so crisp:
Then we headed to Tacos Hola El Guero in Condesa recommended by my colleague and known for their proteins being stewed in clay pots. We really enjoyed these street tacos and it was a street experience with plastic chairs and all!
Then we drove to the historic center and walked to the National Palace as Lalo could not drive all the way in. We said our goodbyes to our great driver and guide - til the end he was guiding us as he told us not to go to the north where the black market is located.
For our tour, we had to check into another building across from the National Palace and hand in our IDs. It’s also subject to change due to presidential commitments and security issues. Then we lined up and were escorted and screened by the Mexican military. It was a very serious process.
The National Palace is the official residence of the President. Here’s the courtyard that was originally 2 levels, but a 3rd story was built on top. So many layers to Mexican culture!
We also saw an array of plants representing the diversity of Mexican flora:
But the primary reason for the tour was to view “The History of Mexico”, by Diego Rivera. It depicts various stages of Mexican history from Rivera’s perspective as it proceeds from right to left, reinforcing his leftist tendencies and as explained by our energetic guide from the finance ministry. It took 6 years starting in 1929 and is representative of Mexican muralism which was funded by the government to teach the masses. "The Big Three" or "The Three Greats" were Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Here are some photos that don’t do justice to the intricate details:
Rivera painted his likeness in the man pointing:
And here’s Frida behind the fat monk, symbolizing the corrupt church:
Here’s Frida again and her sister who famously had an affair with Rivera. They are supposed to be teachers in this section:
Also in the palace are a series of murals depicting different native groups, their history, and life. The below represents a market scene:
Using colors to dye cloths and paint:
Playing games and making trades of goods and women and slaves:
Harvesting from the gum tree:
Depicting the famous cacao and chocolate that was introduced to the Europeans:
The arrival of Hernan Cortés who is depicted sickly. The baby also has green eyes representing the blending of the natives and the Europeans and Rivera’s likeness…
We then walked across Zócalo, the name of the main square, but its formal name is Plaza de la Constitución or Constitution Square. There are many government buildings, but also the Cathedral:
After walking and shopping along with donuts and coffee, we climbed into our very own Hop-On and Hop-Off Uber to head to Roma Norte. It’s part of Colonia Roma, also called La Roma or simply, Roma and has a north and south section. It abuts Condesa and together as Condesa-Roma has been compared to SoHo and West Village.
We had reservations at a rooftop bar called Terraza 95, but they closed the area as they were afraid of rain. As none of us had umbrellas, we decided to walk the block to our restaurant, but I suggested the Blanco Colima next door which I knew had good drinks!
After one round of margarita, mojitos, mezcal, and an espresso martini along with the obligatory boomerang video, we arrived on time next door to Rosetta. The bread, tacos, tamales, pastas, sea bass, and ganache cake were all surprising and delicious! It was a blend of Mexican and Italian flavors in my opinion and a supreme delight. A collage below:
Then we returned to our respective hotels after a comprehensive and colorful CDMX day!
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