Day 365

So blog fans, I warn you that the remainder of the trip will be less exciting and picturesque, but all about family time all the time. However, my biggest fans, Mama and Papa Kim will be very much interested in the remaining posts of the trip, so I continue to write about my days...

I had a leisurely morning of playing games and doing puzzles with Taesoon's (태순) twins. Here’s a photo of Yoon-sik (윤식):



We headed out for lunch, but before we went, I did an ear muff selfie with Yoon-ah (윤아):



We had lunch with my 4th uncle's family for some noodles. Here's a collage of the lunch:



Then we came back to Taesoon's (태순) apartment and hung out for the afternoon eating cookies, ice cream, and fruit. I'm sure any weight I lost from walking and exploring the temples in Japan will be regained due to my spoiling hosts!

For dinner, I had plans to eat with my mom's eldest brother and his family. My cousin Taekyu (태규) arranged everything. He picked me up and then we went to his home where we switched to a "hazel brown" car and went to the restaurant. He had explained the catalogue of colors was very specific and his kids had fun learning the color of the new car.

We had a wonderful dinner nearby with many delicious Korean courses. I tried to take photos, but was so enthralled in conversation, I didn't take photos properly. We did enjoy a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon paired with the meal.

Post meal, we headed down to a café where my uncle enjoyed an affogato and we had various types of coffee. My uncle who is eldest and always the leader in the family, was very engaged in conversation and laughed at all my jokes. I kept declaring, I’m now middle-aged and starting to resign to the fact I’ll be 40 in just a few years! Here’s a photo of us at the café:



Then I was dropped off after the scrumptious meal and ran an errand to pick up flowers for the traditional gravesite visit on New Year's Day!

What a relaxing day of catching up family, but I cannot help but reflect on today being the last day of 2017 and what a year it’s been. I bought my apartment after months of waiting and had a wonderful time living with my parents - a time I will never forget as we got to spend quality time together. As far as travels, I went to Iceland, Arizona, an epic Europe trip for my parents' birthdays, back to Arizona for The Wave hike and Utah parks, Japan, and now Korea. And then I had to weigh a job change and go through the roller coaster of emotions and decided to ultimately leave my job. However, I feel that I have cemented some incredible relationships and friendships at my old job and other people in my life - you all know who you are!

All that said and done, 2017 was an unbelievable blessing and will hopefully bring about a pivotal year with a new job and, of course, more trips and adventures! I’m super grateful on this day for family, friends, and all the blessings in my life. Thank you 2017!

A Warm Welcome

Early morning in my capsule, I got ready to leave Japan. After showering and sorting my luggage, I strolled down to the Osaka City Air Terminal - confusing as it's a bus terminal and a stop for the JR trains. On my way, I munched on a breakfast pastry and drank a small orange juice box provided by my capsule hotel.

I bought a ticket, and lucky enough a bus was leaving within minutes. On my way we crossed a few bridges and I got to see the port - which is what Osaka started as it was a trading and mercantile city. In the distance, you can even see an Ikea! I actually saw an Ikea bus on my walk to the bus terminal.



After the 50 minute ride, I was at the airport and headed to Seoul, Korea. The airport was very crowded, but orderly. Boot wearers like me had to take off their shoes during security, but we're given slippers - so Asian.

I leave Japan relaxed and enchanted by everything I saw. There are so many places I would have liked to have seen and done, but I feel that I have accomplished a lot in the one week and only planning and booking in under three weeks. The hospitality of the Japanese people was bar none - it's crazy that they don't accept tipping and everyone from the hotel front desk clerk to the bus baggage clerk have such pride in their work and try to go above and beyond. I leave with my heart full, my soul refreshed, and my bum toasty! I'll definitely miss those heated toilet seats that play music or birds!

The flight to Korea is just less than two hours and I was able to book with points. I actually flew into Gimpo airport instead of the larger, newer, but further away Incheon airport. Gimpo is actually the airport I grew up going in and out of, so it brings back memories.

My cousin Soon-Hyup (순협), the son of my mom's eldest sister, picked me up as he lives closest to the airport of my cousins. He even offered me to stay with him, and my cousins debated whom I got to stay with, but I promised Taesoon (태순) that I would read the English children's books that I bought for his twins when he was in New York last month. I stay with him a few nights in Bundang (분당) and then switch to within Seoul at my cousin Sang-nim's (상님) when I make my treks to visit the various Kims.

I hung out at Soon-Hyup's (순협) apartment and caught up with his family. As his son is preparing for college admissions, his son and wife couldn't make it to dinner. 

My cousins had organized a welcome dinner of our generation and their kids. What a warm welcome to Korea! Here are a few photos and we're missing a few cousins as they were either trying to settle the bill or chasing children.







3 years ago, my cousins formed a group chat to organize a generation dinner when I was last in Korea. Now, I regularly wake up to tens, if not hundreds of texts! 15 strong (no spouses in the chat!) across 21 years where I'm the youngest, we're more like brothers and sisters. Thank you for the welcome dinner!

Afterwards, some of us headed to my cousin, Dong-hee's (동희) house where we had ice cream affogatos and fruit. We regaled in various stories.

Finally, I headed home to Taesoon's (태순) where his kids and his brother's, Taeyu's (태유), kids were waiting up and playing. I was greeted with claymation gifts of butterflies, a hat, and a seahorse. 

Also, Yoon-shik (윤식), Taesoon's (태순) son drew me and him with the Empire State Building and King Kong. You can see the close ups in the collage along with the fake candy that was given to me as a gift. This 6 year old is pretty talented!

Indeed, a warm welcome all around and my heart is full!

Osaka

After lots of sleep, I got ready to check out of my hotel and leave Kyoto. I decided to walk the 10 minutes, strolling leisurely with my luggage. On my way, I stopped in Yokohama which was like a Yoshinoya with fast food rice bowls. I had a ginger pork bowl with grated radish, pictured below:



At the train station, there were so many options to Osaka and I hopped on the express where I had to pay a supplement. I wasn't in a rush, but at least the train was spacious and plenty of room for my luggage. Arriving at Osaka train station, I took the red subway line south 4 stops to Namba and walked 3 blocks north to my capsule hotel, Astil Dontonburi.

I left my luggage as we can't enter until 3 pm and did a city walk suggested by my guidebook. The major sites, like Osaka Castle, were all closed today due to the end of year holiday. As such, I decided to come to Osaka to check out the glitzy streets and to be closer to the international airport which is just south of here.

I started by walking up to Amerika-Mura which was blaring American rap and plenty of Japanese in dreads. Here the street lamps are funky and there is a replica of the Statue of Liberty at a popular hangout and people-watching spot, called Triangle Park.

Then I headed east and walked down Shinsaibashi-suji shopping arcade:

The arcade brings you to the canal and famous Ebisu-bashi bridge and the colorful Dōtonbori with outrageous and neon signs. Here’s a view up and down the canal and a few of the large signs on Dōtonbori:

Here's the famous Glico Running Man sign from the bridge, an icon of the city:

This clown drummer is also an icon of the city and supposedly embodies the "eat until you drop" attitude here in Osaka. I don’t get it, but here’s the photo:

Near Dōtonbori is Hozen-ji Yokocho which was a quaint street. I stopped and saw a temple with a statue covered in moss, called Hozen-ji. This Buddha deity is a favorite of those of the "water trade" or sex industry and they say their prayers and splash water before going off to work in this very active nightlife of a city.

As I meandered toward my hotel, I decided I deserved a massage. My feet and back had been killing me for days. Not sure what it was - perhaps it was my worn down shoes. I used the cash that I had, saved enough for snacks and my airport bus tomorrow, and booked a body and foot massage for an hour - best $30 decision ever! 

It was definitely more like reflexology and pointy and I lied to my masseuse, Jun, when I said it didn't hurt at times. However, I could feel the release of tension and better circulation due to him needling the various pressure points. Jun said my body was very tight and needed at least 2 hours. I told him I was trying to use my cash, but still keeping enough for my airport bus ticket tomorrow. He laughed as he understood I had to get home - his English was quite good as he had studied jujitsu in Santa Barbara of all places.

Afterwards I found one of many Tako-yaki stands, which sell octopus in doughnuts and green scallions. They were selling them everywhere and Osaka is famous for them. Here's a photo:



By this time, I could check in at the hotel and I crawled into my capsule #350 and rested. My body was tired from the massage and I had a slight headache.



After my nap, I headed down to Dotonbori and stood in line for a popular kushikatsu place called Daruma Kushikatsu. Essentially different types of food are fried and then you can only dip in a shared sauce once, as they remind you everywhere! I had the recommended set of 9 pieces which included meatball, beef, shrimp, fish and cheese, quail egg, rice cake, asparagus, sausage, and pork cutlet.



All tasty and wasn't really sure what I was in the mood for. I had weighed getting sushi for my last night, but didn't see one that I liked right away. There was a famous conveyor belt sushi place, supposedly the first one ever, but it had a longer line.

Here’s a picture of the Glico Running Man at night and Dōtonbori on my walk:





I then returned to the capsule hotel to only watch a patron ask repeatedly if she can just see the "horror capsule". I had seen a sign for it when I checked in - there's a rainbow capsule one too. With the Japanese, there's always a gimmick!

So to my no-gimmick and simple capsule for my last night in Japan - what a wonderful week!

Gates, Deers, and Lanterns

Hankering for a Japanese breakfast, Budi, the nighttime front desk clerk recommended Yayokien which was about 2 blocks further from the ramen shop the other night and right next to Gojo subway station.

I ordered and paid for breakfast using the ticket vending machine and got the Silver Salmon Breakfast. It's curious to think that you would pay first, but it seems efficient and assures the restaurant you can pay for the meal.



Right near the restaurant was the bus to Kyoto station where I picked up another bus to go to Fushimi Inari-Taisha, known for the many Tori or shrine gates. I had also picked up another all day bus pass from my hotel. Although I won't use it as much today as yesterday, it's still a good deal at ¥500 when per fare is ¥230.

After about 15 minutes, we arrived at the stop and I walked up the slight hill. At the main shrine, I prayed and rang the bell.







Around the whole complex, there were fox statues everywhere which apparently were messenger gods of Inari, the god of cereals. The key in the mouth is to symbolize the key to the rice granary and other foxes had grains in their mouths. All I could think of when I saw these statues was - stone cold fox.



There were also these stones where if you guess their weight when you make a wish, lift it, and are correct, your wish will come true. Although I tried it, not sure what the weight was, so no idea if I was right or wrong or if my wish will come true:



Up the mountain, there were so many Tori gates where they were sponsored by various families. You could even see some folks cleaning theirs and there were signs posted in case you wanted to buy / sponsor one.

















On a whim, I decided to hike up to the summit of Inari Mountain which took about an hour round trip. The real issue were the crowds of tourists at the lower parts and accidentally veering off to a side shrine that led to nowhere. I was also a bit overheated as I didn't expect to do this, but I figured when would I get a chance to do it again. Here are a few pictures when it was a bit steep:





At the summit, I expected views, but you really couldn't see much and there was a shrine at which I made an offering:





There were lots of shops throughout the mountain for snacks, drinks, and for offerings to the various shrines. I couldn't imagine having to commute up here daily - these folks must be in good shape. In the lower parts of the mountain. I did see some discreet paths and mopeds.

A great view of the city on my way down:



Finally at the bottom, I picked up some matcha latte and walked over to the JR Inari train station headed to Nara. I had pondered doing Nara on my way to Osaka tomorrow, but as I had seen my top sights yesterday in Kyoto, I had time to head south. The train from Inari was about 50 minutes with a transfer at Uji to the express. If I stayed on the local it would have been about 70 minutes.

In Nara, I wanted to see the Todai-ji Buddha and the famous deer that line the park. Upon arriving, I walked eastward and peeked into side streets like, Higashi-muki which is a popular shopping arcade. I popped into a busy restaurant and ordered a tonkatsu lunch set:



After lunch, I made my way to Nara Koen or park that has everything to see in Nara clustered here. As I walked through, I enjoyed my sushi -shaped lollipop from Tokyo Tsukiji market. It didn't taste like fish, but rather a strawberry swirl:



Then I saw my first deer at the park entrance:



The deer are considered sacred here as the were considered messengers to the gods. Now they are deemed national treasures. They were everywhere and people feed them deer biscuits.

Here's the 5 story pagoda also at the park entrance:



I walked through the park and these photos are of leading up to the Daibutsu, Great Buddha at Todai-ji Temple:









Inside the great Daibutsu Hall - the bronze Buddha is the largest in Japan and one of the largest in the world:









There's a story that this hole in a column behind the Buddha, is the size of Buddha's nostril and if you can crawl through it, you will find enlightenment. Kids and European teenagers took turns crawling through it:



Afterwards, I made my way to Kasuga Taisha shrine which is within the park and known for the many lanterns that lead up to the temple. Apparently, over 2,200 Buddhist customs and ceremonies are still conducted here:







Here’s a deer fountain and a deer on a lantern - so meta:



Starting to tire out, I decided to walk to the Kintetsu train station instead of the JR line to return to Kyoto. Grabbing a seat was clutch as I rested during the 45 minute train ride.

I then waited and got on a bus for Nishiki Market. I hadn't been yet and figured I'd have dinner in this neighborhood. My guidebook had several suggestions, but when I saw the line for Ippudo, I jumped in. After a 20 minute wait, I had the ramen special, "Miso Akamaru" with thick noodles and gyoza that melted in your mouth. I've been to the Ippudo in New York many times, but this was delicious and not overpriced like in NY.



After dinner, I headed to the Main Street and got on a bus back for the hotel. I was on overload with the plethora of gates, deers, and lanterns and needed to get ready to head to Osaka tomorrow!